Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 340
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

mines snow performance. its got a MAP sensor in the control box under the bonnet, when it hits XX psi it starts injecting and by XX its on full so it ramps up the pump based on boost so you arent injecting silly amounts all the time.

water meth injection, its not expensive and gives similar/same results as using E85.

And E85 is cheaper then regular ULP when you buy it at the pump... Runs cooler... You only have to worry about keeping one tank topped up... No extra weight...

Remember, WMI also increases your compression again... So if you go super high CR, you're at risk of bending shit.

And E85 is cheaper then regular ULP when you buy it at the pump... Runs cooler... You only have to worry about keeping one tank topped up... No extra weight...

Remember, WMI also increases your compression again... So if you go super high CR, you're at risk of bending shit.

i am not saying E85 is a bad fuel but in Canberra you cant get it at the petrol station and you cant get it in Goulburn, there is not enough demand for it to be put in considering the relatively small spread out population when you look at Melbourne with 2 stations covering the whole place.

E85 does have negatives too, it uses 30% more for the same power figure (which brings it inline with 98 prices), requires a much larger fuel system to support it, it cant be left for too long as it absorbs water (granted petrol also goes off if left too long), have to keep an eye on your oil as it can contaminate it if the engine isn't running long enough to get the oil up to temp.

WMI with a sufficiently sized tank (like my 9.5L tank) can go for months without checking (street driving though 9.5L is still a lot for track driving) even the smaller tanks last a fairly long time unless you have your foot in it everywhere you drive. WMI also cools the intake charge like E85 does and when setup correctly you can even go so far as to run 91ron petrol and still make good power. (in some cases remove the intercooler completely as well)

there is a new project for you when you are done with the supra steve, 4wd twin turbo V8 skyline.

Haha that would be pretty special! Someone has done that in an r33 gtr in Europe, I think. It was Denmark?

Next for me is the Ultima, v8, 7.3L, 990kg

Nah nothing as exotic, Eagle stroker in an LS Chevrolet block

Now you mention the Zonda motor I'll look up specs just for a laugh

It will have the lightest rotating assembly as possible though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...