Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello can anyone tell me the process of what to do when you buy a car ?

It is a private sale and there was no documentation for the car so the guy just wrote out on a piece of paper stating he has sold the car to me. Is this document enough ? And where do i take it. I just want it transferred into my name but it still has a few months rego left. Anyone help me out would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280704-process-for-buying-a-car/
Share on other sites

If he cannot find the notice of disposal slip that is usually on the back of when you renew your rego, a form with both your names and adresses, purchase price, purchase date, rego, vin etc... must be supplied and signed by both people. Unfortunatly from what rego.act is stating, unless you have the registration certificate you may lose the rego on the car and have to re-establish the registration.

Is the car interstate or local. The owner should be able to goto a shopfront and get a re-print of the registration certificate which will make it alot easier on bother your halves.

Also to transfer it into your name, you will have to do the usual which is get the car inspected and passed, and then pay the usual stamp duty on the sale.

Look over the rego.act website, or even go in and speak to someone there, but best thing to do is to get the other guy to go in and get a reprint of his registration certificate.

If he cannot find the notice of disposal slip that is usually on the back of when you renew your rego, a form with both your names and adresses, purchase price, purchase date, rego, vin etc... must be supplied and signed by both people. Unfortunatly from what rego.act is stating, unless you have the registration certificate you may lose the rego on the car and have to re-establish the registration.

Is the car interstate or local. The owner should be able to goto a shopfront and get a re-print of the registration certificate which will make it alot easier on bother your halves.

Also to transfer it into your name, you will have to do the usual which is get the car inspected and passed, and then pay the usual stamp duty on the sale.

Look over the rego.act website, or even go in and speak to someone there, but best thing to do is to get the other guy to go in and get a reprint of his registration certificate.

Thanks for the reply i will do that. And it is local so that means i dont have to take it to dickson right ?

Depends on how old the car is, and the extent of modifications. If its older then 10 years and isnt defective you wont usually have to take it to dickson inspection station, buy if the current owner doesnt want to have it taken to dickson, could mean he has something to hide which will probably be picked up by any other mechanic doing the inspection.

Best bet is to pay for a road worthy cert. before you buy it so if there is something wrong you can walk away rather then spend more money on getting it fixed/engineered.

Depends on how old the car is, and the extent of modifications. If its older then 10 years and isnt defective you wont usually have to take it to dickson inspection station, buy if the current owner doesnt want to have it taken to dickson, could mean he has something to hide which will probably be picked up by any other mechanic doing the inspection.

Best bet is to pay for a road worthy cert. before you buy it so if there is something wrong you can walk away rather then spend more money on getting it fixed/engineered.

O nah its not a skyline yet its just a tempo car for 4months before i get an R34 this car was cheap as and its older than 10 years.

You need to take it to a servo/workshop that's an authorised inspection station, get it passed, take that report + the rego certificate (he'll tear off the bottom part) + the "receipt" he wrote on the piece of paper + ID ... all the the ACT Shopfront.

All passed somehow and didnt even need rego papers when i asked them if i should get owner to print out but they said it will cost him money etc and no need. Now to pay the dreaded rego for 6months which is hell expensive (did it go up or something) ? If i purchase a 20grand r34 1998~ will i have to pay 600$ stamp duty to get it transfered ? seems crazy expensive

Yeah, well I paid 18K so not quite as bad, but will still be $540 or something :merli:

Trouble is if you make up a low figure they can look up "market value" and use that amount instead..

O yeah i guess they can be dickheads. What r34 you get ? I was thinking of getting something like a black one very lightly modified with <100k kms in manual or auto, dont really mind autos but probably cause my car right now is so shitty that you will hate manual :down:

I got this one!

6211_110179146637_652446637_2600711_3439887_n.jpg

6211_110179151637_652446637_2600712_5405709_n.jpg

It's a GT-T, manual....has a few mods but is clean and molested.. I'm in love with her and can't stop driving :merli:

I guess the auto or manual thing is up to you... I don't like auto's but you can get tiptronic in the R34's so I guess that's a bit better, at least you can still change the gears yourself if you want to. There's heaps of black ones out there so you should find the search a little easier than me holding out for a yellow one LOL :down:

It depends on why you paid a lower figure for the car than market price.

In my case, the guy I bought my car off wrote out two receipts (as well as rego papers), one for (Insert how much I paid for a s1 33 here lol) and the other for $7,000. If they ask why such a lower price than market when I use the one for $7k for the rego transfer, I'll just tell them I bought it with a fked gearbox and only 0 compression in one cylendar or something lol, who'd pay full market price for a fked car? So as far as they're concerned, that's what I paid for it, and that's what it was worth.

Nah that's a different one... belongs to someone called Leigh according to the spotted thread lol :P

Troy, yeah that's true I guess you could say that the car was broken... let us know how you go when you change it over. It seems too easy but maybe if you get a person who can't be bothered questioning you about it you'll be right. $7K isn't really unrealistic for an R33 these days anyway!

molested??? Ummm, Dolly Dunn maybe?

lol! I meant to say unmolested!

That looks great shell!! we'll have to get together and compare 34s :P I want to get that body kit...

PS i've got a stock exhaust handy if ya need one for rego or any reason...

Thanks! Yeah we'll have to compare! I didn't even consider ones without the Nismo kit.. it looks heaps better I reckon. Ooh the exhaust is good to know thanks :D Mine's just a catback and not overly loud so I should be ok hopefully.

Actually I have a random question for you... is your fuel filler hole really small? :pirate: On my R33 I can get the nozzle all the way in (as you should) but I went to fill up this car for the first time and it only fits the end?!?!? I felt like a tard! But I tried again at a different servo and same thing :P

:pirate:

yeah I was trying to write that without too much "can't get it all in the hole" type bits LOL

And yes, the sensor thing is bloody annoying!! Sometimes it helps to take the nozzle out and put it back in again, but some servos are worse than others and no matter what you do it keeps clicking off! :P

LOL shell (insert a that's-what-she-said comment)

The only problems i've ever noticed with every skyline i've filled up, is that if u dont hold the nozzle at the right angle and depth, it keeps cutting out as if it was full. Bloody annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...