Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nismoR34 - i think rob was just giving you shit for fun, not saying your wrong in pointing it out.. but on the other note - you'd have to be stupid to read "dail up 8000rpm" and then go and actually do it.... however, i guess some people take everything they read here for gospel ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28109-burnouts-d/page/2/#findComment-587058
Share on other sites

Ok, I do apologise for posting saying 8000rpm was a good place to drop the clutch.

In a standard R33 GTS-T, I would still recommend around the 5000-6000rpm mark as this will ensure that the tyres break traction and can spin up quickly and efficiently.

A burnout will take of the same amount of tread as travelling the same distance while rolling. The fact that you aren't moving anywhere doesn't make a difference.

Just a quick note to draggers who wanna warm tyres before running. Everyday street tyres are designed to operate most effectivly at a specific temperature. If the tyre heats to a point past this temperature, you will actually lose traction as the tyres have been slicked up.

I found that on street tyres, a burnout really isn't necessary as these tyres are designed to work better at a colder temperature rather than hotter. If you really wanna do one, simply a quick burnout without the brake would be sufficient.

That is all...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28109-burnouts-d/page/2/#findComment-587148
Share on other sites

well stated!

I agree that street tyres are generally a waste of time for burnouts [tyre warming] - now tell all the officials at the various drag strips because they expect you to do one, though I suspect they just want to please the crowd or something...

I do need new tyres though - and a clutch!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28109-burnouts-d/page/2/#findComment-587188
Share on other sites

Handbrake will simply apply more braking to the rear wheels making your engine need to work harder to fight against it. THe brake pedal has more bias toward the front brakes, hence better for rear end to spin. Try getting a line locker to prevent rear brakes from working at all. It makes burnouts a breeze. Then again, they already are, and also, tyres are expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28109-burnouts-d/page/2/#findComment-588351
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
×
×
  • Create New...