Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm still of the firm belief that ISO acreditation would solve most issues here due to the necessity of a paper trail and accountability. You cant break protocol with personal and random opinion with this in place, and there will exist a resolution procedure for unhappy customers, which will by necessity require documentation on their part. The fact that SEVS makes this mandatory, only to have the 'approval' body escape without it is simply ludicrous, and reaks of inconsistancy. Also are there any degreed mechanical engineers present? Without such no one is suitably qualified to make a judgement call on mechanical modifications. I thankfully have never had to go through this trauma but fully sympathise with those less fortunate. I think it would be easier to succesfully argue this implementation, and everything we are looking for would be necessarily covered and under the 'guise' of modern practice, which should make any politician happy. Does anyone else have any opinion on this?

I do agree that ISO certification, or at least a visable form of quality assurance would go part of the way, but I dont believe it would go far enough.

currently Regency hides behind its interpretation of ADRs and provides exemption on occasion, apparently at whim. Certain things though they flatly refuse to look at.

The problem with this is that there is no scope within ADRs for modification to vehicles - they can be interpreted both for and against the enthusiast - most states lean on the side of the car owner, as long as the mod is safe. For example in WA it is ok to fit a blow off valve, in Qld you can fit an ECU or upgraded turbo, as long as you can pass a dyno emissions test Further, where mods fall completely outside of the original design of the vehicle, and if an appropriately skilled engineer certifies a car can be driven on the road safely, approval is granted for the car to be street registered.

All fair, with an emphasis on public safety, not bloodymindedly enforcing rules out of the context that they were originally intended.

what i seriously dont get is this. They will let u fit a bigger newer engine to ur car, ie a big v8 in any small car, yet they wont let u put a turbo on it, as according to regency, by doing this u are basically becoming your own car manufacturer and have no emmission results as such.

But do they think about how differently the car will handle with this hunk of iron in the front of it instead of the old pos small engine. Basically all frontal crash testing would become void, car handling charateristics change, chassis may not be up to the task, etc etc etc.

The fact is its ludicrous that u can change the engine but not change the turbo...

If you replace the engine with one more than 20% (from memory) larger than the largest fitted, you have to have an engineers report and do lane change stability and braking tests.

The big thing is emissions, if you havent changed the charactheristics of the engine you fit, ie its still OEM in all regards, you only need to provide a 2 gas emissions test, which can be done at most dyno shops.

If you change anything on the engine though, you need to prove it still complies with the ADR, which means a minimum of an !M240 test, which is what Regency said they need to prove compliance. There are no IM240 test facilities in SA, only the mitsi ADR37 test facility, which will cost $3.5K.

Interesting to note:

DOTARS 2million dollar study into vechicle emissions, recommends a steady state 60kph test be adopted for proving vehicles still conform to emissions stadards, which is cheap.

Also Stephen Bell has an RG240 test, which is accurate to within 10% of the IM240 test, and costs $375, and in Tim Ireland's own words, 'if it passes the RG240, it should pass the IM240', went on to say that they wouldnt accept it though.

Another thing that shows the extent of the beaurocracy, if you modify a pre 1972 car, no emissions test is required, as there are no applicable ADRs. Tim Ireland recommended that if I want to modify a car, to modify a pre 1972 car for this reason. Makes sense doesnt it, go and modify an old ford or holden, slap twin turbos on a 350 or 351 and its quite road legal - great service they are providing, making sure cars are safe on the roads eh?

In effect, the enforcement and interpretation of current regulations is encouraging people to modify OLD cars, and there is no way they would be safer on the road than a later model car - as I said before, beaurocracy out of control.

  • 1 month later...

Steve, more info for u: Did u see last week in the Advertiser, there was an article about regency. Basically it was about written off cars getting re-birthed, but what is concentrated on was the inconsistencies and lack of structure that regency has. Regency now say they are going to review all there proceedures in regards to this. Maybe this article would be helpful to u and us.... If u dont know about the article, ill see if i can find it, but i know it was definately last week somtime in the advertiser.

The last SAU hills cruise I went on (not last weekend, the one before) would've been right up your alley Steve. 8 or so cars, no idiot drivers, a spirited run through some nice twisty hills roads, with nil unwanted attention. Perfect!

Wow just read all 8 pages (took a while)!!!

Well done for taking a stand and I hope that what you do can make a difference cauz regency is an absolute joke!

I'm probably going to be importing sometime in the near future and I really hope I won't have to put up with some of the bullshit that you guys have gone through. Keep up the good work!!! :)

I agree totally Steve. A mate of mine just bought a Evo 3 from Victoria, (technically its a GSR modified into an Evo 3 as you cannot import Evo 3's in Australia.) However, all the modifications have been approved and the car came accompanied with an engineer's certificate for ALL modifications, and was cleared and registerd in Victoria, complies with all ADR's and then he gets it here and Regency says, sorry we don't care about your engineer's certificate or the fact that the car's already been registered in another state, we want a full inspection and we'll tell you when we feel like doing it! The poor bloke tried to explain that he was gonna be in breach of contract if the car isn't registered with SA plates under his name within 2 weeks and they didn't even give a f**k!! I mean the car was Aus. Delivered to begin with and has already been cleared!!

I keep my car under Vic rego because its harder to defect, most cops including traffic in SA have no idea about how different the defect rules are in VIC and can't be bothered pulling out the handbook to look them up.

Keeping things such as BOVs on the pipe under the wheel arch help alot to avoid defects. One sentence that will help you immeasurably is "The engines out put is no higher than factory!" But even if i get a defect the VICROADS system means that i go see a VICROADS certified representative just over the border and they will remove the defect.

Customer service over there is amazing with VICROADS. You call them and tell them what you want to do, but instead of saying you can't do that or just a plain NO. I got "well if you want to do that the best way to do it and avoid problems is....." The only problem is that when you register the car overthere you need to deminstate that you have an address is VIC , but to do this you don't even need a bill with your name on it, just a relative.

hey guys got pulled in to a defect station at mt pleasent just out of birdwood

got done for tinted windows ( whitch he tested with the back of his hand ) and gauges (which are below the dash line , aswell i have to go through regency because of the tint , the question is , is there neway around regency and geting it off at a cop shop instead or am i screwed ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...