Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Is it free sam?

Talbo - thanks mate :)

Star trail attempt 1:

startrail1resize.jpg

If you would like to see a timelapse video just let me know and i will create one.

Now back into the cold to take a shot more to the left.. Perhaps might make a panorama. Will see.

yes but its a nikon mount :P

:bunny:

it can be free sidd :)

hahah i like your thinking..

how long are those exposures?? an hour??
I'd say it's a few minutes over a whole bunch of shots and then put together.. maybe?

They are 30 second exposures.. Took about 30-40mins worth and yea then bunched together like sam mentioned.

My Star trail shot I took last year was done with a Fisheye lens but it was on the 350D so the crop cancels a lot of the barrel distortion out.

Gonna do another re-shoot as soon as my new camera lands.

I bought an EOS 1Ds MkII yesterday. :P

This one is beautiful zennon: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jYJzVuAzULc/SpKUgPZJ...8Compressor.jpg

Should print it :D

Lepperfish - Ah thats ok!! i will eventually buy it one day. Be sure to post up pics from your fisheye :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...