Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=29207&page=2

I think Sydneykid spells out a good guide.

What is the Garrett equivalent of the GT2530? With the good responses with the 2530 we've already seen (~230rwkW) I don't know what else is better suited.

T.

I'll vote for the 2530 for up to 240rwkw, being its absolute max.

Some time ago when Tilbrooks featured the RB20DET 220rwkw R31 (White) I asked Martin at the time where it made full boost(1.1bar) he said around 3800rpm on the street.

This is very near the stock RB20DET turbo which on mine makes 1.1bar around 3500rpm.

I've also had a VG30BB Ceramic Exhaust wheel turbo, that made 1 bar at around 4000-4100rpm, loading it up would see 1bar by around 3600rpm. It did feel laggy and crap though. When power came on it didn't come on strong and didn't feel like it had much more over the stock RB20DET turbo up top. It felt to me that the car due to the extra lag was slower on the street over the stock setup.

im getting very close to getting my 2530 tuned!

you wont need z32 afm with a setup like this unless you run high boost levels.

eg for my setup with std comp ratio i plan to run a comfortable reliable 1.1bar maybe just a tad more, and have an easy 230+rwkw.

Hey Sly, are you sure of this?!?

I have only a stock turbo running 12psi, any higher than this i either get boost cut or air flow meter maxing out... at 230+ rwkW surely the AFM will be showing more than 5V

when you're reaching 230rwKw or more would you need a fuel pressure regulator?

obviously an upgraded fuel pump is needed but a regulator? how much are these neway?

oh and does anyone know a TRUST turbo that's comparable to the GT2530 and the 3040?

I had to replace my standard AFM with a Z32AFM because it was maxing out at about 190kw too.

I have one of the turbos mentioned in this thread on my car now, namely the HKS 2530.

Its a pleasure to drive and I would choose this turbo again. It feels a lot better than my high flowed standard turbo.

  • 5 months later...

hey fellas, when does the factory turbo max out? is it 190 or 210 rwkw?

And when will the 2510 max out? If its the same rwk or just a bit more why change? the 2510 isnt more responsive than the factory unit is it?

Cheers

My apoligies for the hijack

why does everyone ask what turbo is best geez....... what do u want more like it !

and basic mods is not much to go on......

sorry guys had to vent some frustration as this topic comes up all the time...

i wish people would do search's before asking ....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
×
×
  • Create New...