Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i recently have done a few mods to my r33,

- high mount to4e

- 720cc injectors

- 040 fuel pump

- sard fpr

- greddy ultimate

- greddy plenum

- fuel rail

- new cooler piping

- turbosmart boost tee running 18psi backing to 14psi.

it made 220kw at the rears on 16psi at 6200rpm(limiter set at that, which im pretty pissed about, im thinking its the turbo not making the power, but i need a workshop that can tune it better as i aint 100% happy with the power and tune, any thoughts?, ive previously had an s13 with an rb20 which had link ecu, to4e, fuel pump, ignitors, cooler, exhuast, 15psi that made 320hp, give and take a couple of hp due to different dynos, but my rb25 isnt making the power it should?any ideas will be muchly appreciated?...thanks. Ive heard about Matty Spry if anyone know his contact details or what his workshop is called pklease let me know thanks

Please talk through past experience, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282028-extremeyl-good-tuners-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

G'Day GHO57,

Im the tuner at EFI, I dont normally post on here as that is Ricks (whitey) thing,

The power that you are making in very respectable with a T04E.

One thing to remember that a T04E does come in may different housing and wheel trims and sizes.

Your 220rwkw works out to around 300rwhp which on 16 psi is pretty good.

Its a little lower than 35R sort of power figures with an older style turbo you have to expect that.

I would maybe ring your tuner and ask why the rev limiter is set too 6200, as this is pretty low for a 25. If the power is dropping off then maybe look at camshaft timing as this is a good give away for horsepower falling early.

You say your boost controller is hitting 18psi, then dropping to 14 psi? Do you mean its spiking to 18psi then dropping to 14psi higher in the rpm? if this is the case, Its sounds like you may have a compressor out of flow or a miss match on the exhaust housing side e.g. too small exhaust housing.

How is the drivablilty of the tune? does the car start and drive well? does it use a excessive fuel when not driven hard? These are things you have to take into account other than power figures.

Id give your old tuner a bell, and just ask them. They where obviously good enough to go to in the first place, and they may have explanations for all your questions and even options on how to remedy any issues you have.

Failing that Matty can be contacted on

Performance Injection Tuning Services

Unit 10 / 42 Export Drive

Molendinar QLD 4214

Australia

Phone : 0411 34 00 33

Thanks,

Sean

Edited by EFI Performance
G'Day GHO57,

Im the tuner at EFI, I dont normally post on here as that is Ricks (whitey) thing,

The power that you are making in very respectable with a T04E.

One thing to remember that a T04E does come in may different housing and wheel trims and sizes.

Your 220rwkw works out to around 300rwhp which on 16 psi is pretty good.

Its a little lower than 35R sort of power figures with an older style turbo you have to expect that.

I would maybe ring your tuner and ask why the rev limiter is set too 6200, as this is pretty low for a 25. If the power is dropping off then maybe look at camshaft timing as this is a good give away for horsepower falling early.

You say your boost controller is hitting 18psi, then dropping to 14 psi? Do you mean its spiking to 18psi then dropping to 14psi higher in the rpm? if this is the case, Its sounds like you may have a compressor out of flow or a miss match on the exhaust housing side e.g. too small exhaust housing.

How is the drivablilty of the tune? does the car start and drive well? does it use a excessive fuel when not driven hard? These are things you have to take into account other than power figures.

Id give your old tuner a bell, and just ask them. They where obviously good enough to go to in the first place, and they may have explanations for all your questions and even options on how to remedy any issues you have.

Failing that Matty can be contacted on

Performance Injection Tuning Services

Unit 10 / 42 Export Drive

Molendinar QLD 4214

Australia

Phone : 0411 34 00 33

Thanks,

Sean

All good common sense there.

One of the big ticket items on your list is the greddy plenum. Just because you paid plenty for it doesnt mean it well net you a massive power gain.

At that mod level it would brobably do bugger all and may even cost you some down low squirt.

thank you to all that have replied, fuel economy is better than it was stock, im getting more km's out of a full tank of 98optimax, and with the mods im fairly happy with the consumption atm, yes i am aware the plenum may not do much in power gains, but for future plug changes, more spacious room in the enigine bay i went with it, its a genuine greddy plenum yes it costs big bucks, but hey its not something ill be thinking of changing later on & i dont want a chinese brand that doesnt fit or needs modifying to fit, but the turbo on the other hand, yes but a standard turbo could make 300hp atw, dont understand why a t04e isnt capable especially on 16psi making more power, yes it spikes to 18psi the backs on to a steady 16psi, cheers for all the info guys please pm me a workshop that is able to help me cheers.

If you have good coils you shouldn't need to gap your plugs down to 0.7mm - all you're doing is hiding a weak spark.

Try opening them back up to 1.0 or 1.1 mm and see if that helps your idle, obviously if it starts breaking down under load at higher rpm though (at 18psi and not insane power you should be right if the coils are in good nick) you'll need to either close them up a little bit or invest in stronger coils. IMHO it's worth looking at a set of LS1 coils or something similar if your ECU can drive them, it doesn't sound like you have an issue with upgrading with an eye to the future :(

thanks for that, yeah the coilpacks are brand new, i dont know why but "they" said to me that i needed a cooler plug(which is correct for higher boost levels), but yeah im taking it to get it dynoed again on the 15th-08-09 so it will be interesting to see what is stopping it, cheers all.

Big Thanks to EFI PERFORMANCE for their help so far. Appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...