Jump to content
SAU Community

Broke My Car

STIVS6

By STIVS6,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

STIVS6 Contributor

STIVS6

Posted
Posted

I was playing around underneath my car (drivers side under intake plenum, from the bottom of the car). I was plugging in the knock sensor wires which were sitting at the back of the block so I had to give them a little yank forwards to get the front wire free. Could I have pulled out the starter motor wire as the car is no longer starting and it was the night before, before I touched anything, lol. I have to pull my intake plenum off on the weekend, to tidy up some wires, but is there anything I should look for?

Oh, the car is not cranking over at all. There is plenty of power in the battery. Just dead silence.

Edit, just checked the car again, last sentance promted me too. I couldn't hear my fuel pumps priming. Checked my fuses and none appear to be blown, but headlights are bright, so plenty of power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/
Share on other sites
STIVS6 Contributor

STIVS6

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have been out having a look for a little while now. I am stumped. I have disconnected my battery and reconnected it. Looked over my wiring and got my handy test light out, I have power from my ignition fuses. I have checked my fuel pump relay and ignition relay. I am convinced that I have pulled a wire I shouldn't have (check the first post). Any ideas????

The car was running perfectly the night before. I think I really have broken it. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4751917
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

No, but the fact that the pump isn't working won't cause the engine not to crank over.

(I'm understanding your problem is that the starter motor is not turning the engine, not that the engine won't start and run)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4752644
Share on other sites
STIVS6 Contributor

STIVS6

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No, but the fact that the pump isn't working won't cause the engine not to crank over.

(I'm understanding your problem is that the starter motor is not turning the engine, not that the engine won't start and run)

Your correct and I need to rephrase. The starter is not turning leading me to believe I have dislodged a wire. But I usually prime the fuel pump first (turning the key to ignition and holding it there before turning it over) and the 044 is fairly loud, but now nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4752725
Share on other sites
STIVS6 Contributor

STIVS6

Posted
  • Author
Posted
high chance that you have disabled the starter somehow. check the wiring. keep us posted :down:

Will do dude. I took off my intake plenum. First impressions look good (which may be bad) as the start has power and can't see any immediate issues.

Quick, but stupid question perhaps. I have unplugged all the sendors on the intake side to disassemble the intake plenum. Would having those disconnected now stop me from cranking over the engine now? Talking TPS, injectors ect. Just to see if the starter and pumps are active?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4753493
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Those sensors are only required to run the engine. They will have no effect on whether or not the engine cranks.

"start has power" - are you talking about the big mo-fo cables? There should be a "standard" wire with an ordinary spade clip connected to the start solenoid (small cylinder on top of the starter)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4753607
Share on other sites
STIVS6 Contributor

STIVS6

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Those sensors are only required to run the engine. They will have no effect on whether or not the engine cranks.

"start has power" - are you talking about the big mo-fo cables? There should be a "standard" wire with an ordinary spade clip connected to the start solenoid (small cylinder on top of the starter)

Champion! Spotted that spade connector with no wire. I guess I have yanked it off. Once I have tidied up I will crank it and let you know how it goes. Cheers pal. I hope this is the cause... would it explain the fuel pumps not priming? Are they connected at all? May be in my car with the rewire, since everything else is incorrect.

Car is cranking with that plugged on! Cheers mate, owe you a beer. I will let you know how I go with the umps once everything else is plugged in. :down:

Edited by STIVS6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282154-broke-my-car/#findComment-4753762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • r32-25t
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...