Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Pulling Left Slightly

Bomba
 Share

Recommended Posts

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
Posted

man that sucks :P

im no help, i have no idea what it could be.

i guess i'll see how i go when i take my car in, i'll try fulcrum first.

I'll be having a hicas lockbar put on aswell, so i'll let you know how that goes.

Is your steering fairly neutral? i found while driving at about 100kms i can swing the wheel left and right a few centimeters with little to no feedback. and once i get to 110kms it starts getting a bit shakey

Maybe the car has hit a curb at some point and something got bent?

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

i have had every car ive owned do this, its normal (to a certain extent ofcourse)

dont quote me on this but i have heard time and time again it is purposely meant to drive left if u fall asleep behind the wheel so that you dont hit oncoming traffic on your right

kind of makes sense to me but knowing every car that i've owned slightly pulls to the left if i let go of the steering wheel hints to me that its a deliberate thing by design even tho all of them have been wheel aligned atleast once whilst in my possesion and all specs were what they are meant to be

i have been told that a adjustable caster rod setup can override this, thats as far as my knowledge goes with this matter

gl

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
Posted

funny you mention that, just noticed my driver side rear is slightly higher than the other side. i'll need to get that adjusted too. haha

Steering is perfect, no slack whatsoever, no vibration at any speed everything is 100% even just checked the ride height and all 4 are 380mm!

Hopefully someone can help?????

PIOTREK Proficient

PIOTREK

Posted
Posted

Mate I honestly feel your pain...... Until yesterday! Got a new set of tyres fitted and it drives dead straight! Check the condition of your tyres!! Mine had plenty of meat on them but the rubber was just really old! Side walls and everything were saggingy!

Having said that rather than spending 400 now on tyres borrow a mates set of tyres! And see if that helps, cause u don't wanna spend another 400 for nothing- ensure your tyres are correctly balanced!

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
Posted

new tyres helped me alot also. did the swap with the wheels from my old 33 to check first.

another thing i noticed last night... i have volk gtcs and the centrebore on the rim is larger than the hub.

I put some hubcentric rings over the hub to fit the wheel better. now my shakey/dodgey steering at 100km/h+ has gone away.

Still pulls a little to the left, but it doesnt seem quite as bad now.

What wheels are you running? another thing for you to look at maybe?

Bomba Contributor

Bomba

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm starting to think it's the tyres too.

I'm running stock wheels with 225/45/17 tyres which are only 6months (11,000k's) old but they are crappy Achilles which I'm guessing were the cheapest the complier could find!

I just put around 275k's on the car this weekend and overall it is better. When I travel in the right hand lane on the M1 it will actually drift right but nowhere near as much as a left cambered road. Also the overall steering feel is alot more responsive than before. A bit unsetteling to begin with as the car was very responsive anyway but I'm used to it now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...