Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

question on defects...

if you get defected like you did...and you then go "well fk this, Im going to derego the car" I imagine you still have to pay the fines etc, but you wouldnt need to clear the defects then?

if not, save yer money from that and buy a tow car :rofl:

I got defected on Saturday, i and plenty of my friends noticed a very big police presence everywhere we drove.

Must have been a huge blitz on.

My defects were minor and will be cleared this week.

Sounds like you got raped Paul :blink:

Im looking to get my whole car engineered (including emissions)

Just for reference: http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/noise/vehiclenoise.htm

Jeez - this is really a worry. Maybe we should start a Defect Station Location / Date & Time sticky thread so we can see if there is a pattern or specific areas they target? Mods - do you think this is a good idea?

It's a real shame as so many of us put serious time and money into our cars and are not the "HOONs" these laws are trying to target.

I saw this setup on Sat night it looked pretty full on they took up the whole carpark. Saw plenty of cops pulling anything modified over in the area. Lucky I was getting my drink on! :P

question on defects...

if you get defected like you did...and you then go "well fk this, Im going to derego the car" I imagine you still have to pay the fines etc, but you wouldnt need to clear the defects then?

if not, save yer money from that and buy a tow car :banana:

I'd also like to know this as it might be an option for many people that get done like craked

Sorry to hear bout the car man.

I got pulled to the side of the road the other day by three highway patrols, checked through my whole car looking at everything, we joked around with each saying the three things in life that is gonna get you in trouble is "cars, money and women". He said he was impressed with the car as it was clean, said he was expecting it to be all dirty and "gunky" lol...I was missing a P plate, claimed I was going a bit over the limit, said I needed a engineers certificate for my exhaust and my geer knob was a defect. He said I passed his "attitude" test and he is gonna let me go, told me to have a good day and keep of the gas lol.

The funny thing is since I changed my exhuast and removed my BOV from defect last year, I haven't been stopped by highway patrol since :( Knowing my luck, once I switch back I'll be pulled over the next day

It seems they tend to increase the road presence in the lead up to Christmas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...