Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

totally depends on the setup.

I know some cars running over 20psi no drama's. Again though, its all subjective to the setup, how much restriction, lack there of, etc etc etc.

Power sounds about right for a good build

I'm running these and boost peaks at about 22psi.

How much power were you puttin down?? is it on a rebuilt engine?? mine atm is on stock internals so after the rebuild hks 2.8lt stroker was curious to know if i could acheive better power through more boost.

Hmmm... dont put a 2.8ltr and use -7/-9's IMO.

You use the -5's and go for the 400rwkw marker to do justice to the expense that is 2.8ltrs, otherwise if you are going the smaller turbos stick with 2.6ltrs :)

That's just my personal thought. It would be a very responsive 2.8ltr with -7s, but i just dont think the cost justifies the end

My R32 GTR has the -7 and is putting out about 330rwkw @ 20psi. It runs a max of 22psi but i don't have a power figure on that, but it does feel much more powerful on 22psi.. Stock internals also.

Nice yeah mine around 340rwkw at 19psi so was curious wat i could make, how much difference do you think it made?? ccause i rebuildin the 26 an not sure weather to keep the twins??

what do you use the car for? twins are there to reduce lag and kep some sort of mid-range torque. If it is a street car or track day weapon i would run twins, if its a drag car that you drive on the street once a month put a big single on it.

Nice yeah mine around 340rwkw at 19psi so was curious wat i could make, how much difference do you think it made?? ccause i rebuildin the 26 an not sure weather to keep the twins??

I dunno why people still have the idea that a -7 turbo is a good upgrade. The -9 turbo is better in EVERY way. It's much newer, a lot more efficient, has same spool-up and makes a fair bit more power. Too many ppl think the -7 is the Garrett equivalent to the GT-SS but it's the -9 that's the GT-SS. The -7 should be discontinued.

Edited by bradsm87
I dunno why people still have the idea that a -7 turbo is a good upgrade. The -9 turbo is better in EVERY way. It's much newer, a lot more efficient, has same spool-up and makes a fair bit more power. Too many ppl think the -7 is the Garrett equivalent to the GT-SS but it's the -9 that's the GT-SS. The -7 should be discontinued.

Was looking into this the other day trying to make sense of sizing/capabilities but it is very hard to find a listing for both in the same place... Any more opinions???

(this could get intersting...)

Very simple:

On your current setup, put it on the Dyno and push the turbos to the point where they stop producing more power.

I.e if you push 330RWKW at 21PSI then you push 22PSI and it still produces 330RWKWs then you know the turbos have reached their efficiency. Like Nismoid said before, it all depends on your specific setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...