Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i am basiclly a first time writer but long time onliner if you get my flow.....

im in the market for a r32gtr and tonite i went and had a look at one, now ive been searching for a while and the one that i took a look at is fairly standard and looks pritty legite.......

what do u guys think????? "i took my skyline manual with me and it pritty well checks off every thing in the list?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1223C82ACD25

one thing, he claimed it makes 239 kws at the rears with the 4wd disingaged cause of the fact he was on a two wheel dyno but is still runing standard boost wat do u think modds are as followed on the link

also the frount mount didnt look standard

cheers in advance

giuseppe

Edited by r32gtr92
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282789-my-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

I think he's pulling himself with 238kw with very little power mods. Well, unless he can prove it.

Yeah +1.

Ask him for a Dyno sheet print out.

Seller says:

"Engine is mechanically sound and exterior is in great condition. Very clean and neat car that gets driven a maximum of twice a week.

Extras:

Stainless steel 3" Greddy catback exhaust,

Exceedy heavy duty clutch,

Pod filters,

Alpine stereo speakers

7" Motorised LCD DVD/VCD/TV Player (USB and SD card compatible),

Remapped ECU

Turbo Timer.

All resonable offers will be considered"

Car looks pretty stock to me... Cat back exhaust, twin pod filters and a Remapped ECU = 239 Rear Wheel kW's..?

Don't think so.

Ask him what has he done to the ECU, stock or aftermarket?

Remapping an ECU means fine tuning the the Unit to get better performance out of your car by altering the Air/Fuel Ratios, settings...

In doing so to try and increase power and torque and making the car more responsive down low, mid range or top end and try to cancel out any flat spots in the power and torque curves.

After doing so I still can't see how he got 239 rw kW's unless having Dyno sheet to prove.

cheers 00skyline00 ,

thats what i thought took it for a test drive and it felt pritty quick compared to stockers that ive been in but like you said i dont think its possible either,

great responsiveness i must say?

gonna call for a dyno sheet for proof.

wopps didnt relise i was loged in to my lost acount that i didnt think was there any more,

as above

all comments are welcome>?

Yeah no worries!

But still take another look into the car, if it runs well and a tad quicker then standard, in a good condition...

Do a bit more research, ask a few more questions and even take you mechanic down with you next time to see the car.

The seller is negotiable on price so take a stab at it... He wants $18,499, then see if he will take anything in the $16K range.

If not then you both meet each other half way on the price, say $17,500 or whatever...

If he won't lower the price, meaning he still thinks his car has some good mods and can make 239kW's. (Trying to get some money back on the "Mods" he has done")

If he is willing to lower it then you know it's pretty much stock...

My point of view anyway and this is all in speculation, cuz I am not standing in front of the car and just judging from the Carsales add.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...