Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Rotor Install


Recommended Posts

sorry no pics so I will try and describe :)

1/ loosen up nuts on all 4 wheels

2/ jack up front of car and put it on nice solid jack stands

3/ jack up rear of car and put it on nice solid jack stands (you do have 4 car stands, right?)

4/ take all 4 wheels off

5/ open the bonnet, take the lid off the brake master cylinder resoviour. Using a syringe remove as much brake fluid as you can (you do have a syringe, right?)

6/ Assuming you mean front discs, remove the pads from the front caliper. Depending on the caliper this normally is a small spring clip hold 1 or 2 pins in the caliper, then push down on the spring and knock the pin(s) out. Pull the pad halfway out, then stop and lever the pad back and forward until the caliper pistons have retracted a little. Pull the pads right out. If its rear discs same sort of thing but only 1 pin.

7/ behind the caliper are large bolts into the hub (14mm or 17mm head). Get a biggest breaker bar you have and undo these (you do have a big breaker bar, right?). Pull the caliper off the disc and support it (cable tie it up, rest it on the spring or lower control arm, whatever, just don't let it dangle on the brake hose).

8/ the disc now pulls straight off. sometimes it is seized on and might need a bop with a rubber mallet to break the rust seal of disc to hub. If its the rears....remember to release the handbrake first. If its really really right some discs have 2 threaded holes in them. find a bolt with the same thread and wind it into these holes....when they get to the bottom they will prise the disc off the hub.

9/ ok all done pulling apart. grab a can of brake cleaner (and nothing else, especially carby cleaner) and clean the new discs. A quick rub with a nylon brush can help too. Brake cleaner dries without residue so don't worry about cleaning it off....but don't get it on (or leave it on) paint. You do have a can or 2 of brake cleaner, right?

10/ slide the disc over the studs. While you are here put a little grease on the wheel studs (copper grease, lithium grease, high temp general grease, you do have some grease, right?) but make sure none goes on the disc. Put 1 or 2 wheel nuts on to hold the disc tight against the hub

11/ Clean the caliper with brake cleaner, then slide it back over the disc. Replace those big bolts and do them up damn tight.

12/ Put the pads, pins and clips back in the caliper. Take off those 1 or 2 wheel nuts.

13/ Grab 2 bottles of good brake fluid (like Motul RBF600) and fill up the master cylinder resovoir. Get a friend (you do have a friend, right?) to sit in the driver's seat. Go the the right left wheel, put your brake bleeder hose over the bleed nipple (outside if there are 2).

14/ Get the brake pedal bitch to push on the brakes a couple of times until the pedal is hard and off the floor...then while holding the brake pedal down crack open the bleeder nipple (10, 11 or 12mm ring spanner depending on the caliper. Always use a ring spanner only, you do not want to round off the bleeder). Once the pedal gets almost to the floor close off the bleeder, then get the brake bitch to pump the pedal a few times until it is up and hard again. Repeat this until you see the clean new fluid coming through the hose, and no sign of air bubbles. If it takes more than say 10 cycles give up and move to the next one (you will have to do all 4 corners twice). Every 5 pumps refill the master cylinder resoviour, if it runs dry you are starting this all again and it will be even worse. Then do the outside bleeder if you have one, 3-5 cycles will be enough.

15/ Next do the same for rear right, then front left , then right. Keep filling up that resoviour. Once you have done all 4 corners fill the resoviour up to full and put the lid back on.

16/ Wheels back on, wheel nuts finger tight.

17/ Take car back off stands and put it back on the ground.

18/ Grab your torque wrench and do the wheel nuts up to 110nm (you do have a torque wrench right?)

19/ OK go and hit a quiet road. Light braking only (avoid where possible). Zoom up to speed limit then slow down say 60-80klm/hr without coming to a complete stop. Plan ahead, you want to avoid having to come to a complete halt with hot new discs. Once you have stopped say 6 times and you can smell brake pads, coast for about 3-5 min without stopping and minimal braking....you new discs are bedded in andready to go.

You may want to put some wd40 on the caliper bolts and caliper bleed nipples 1/2hr before you start (you do have some wd40, right?)

Most of all, if you are not confident get someone who know what they are doing to do it. You don't want to stuff with brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • that is correct to be more precise, this sensor goes to a loom which contains only the flat blade single terminal (to connected to this sensor) and then the connector shown in my first post. This loom is tied up to one of engine hairness
    • This is really sad news to hear and it has taken me a few days to come to grips with the loss of Neil.  Neil was very straight forward and I have always respected his honesty and how he called it how it was.  He was a very knowledgeable man and was always available to provide advice when you needed help to solve a problem because he would have encountered the same issue in the past and could explain how he solved it.  Neil will be missed by many members of the Skyline family.
    • Dropped the car down to my mates shop on the 19th to get it on the dyno. Ran the motor in and dropped the running in oil and filter and filled it up with some engine oil.  Monday arvo I went down and we got a tune in her. Had a fun time trying to get it to hook up on the rollers. We end up having to roll into the throttle, reaching full throttle at around 6k. Made 23psi on gate then tapered off to 20psi up the top and spat out a healthy 700rwhp.  We had a slight voltage issue which was dropping ecu volts to around 11.8v so we called it quits and on Tuesday I went down and ran a couple of new power feeds to the ECU and DBW relays. Have yet to test it as we were trying to get things sent into the ECU from the TCU over CAN. We've now got oil temp, programme switch and gear position. Still working on gearbox speed, but have been told what to do so hopefully that will sort it. Once we've got speed working, we can start setting up the gear shift cuts and do some clutch adaptations in the TCU.  Should have the majority of it setup this week and go over the tune to see how it is now with the new power wire.  Was slack this time, didnt get any full runs as I was watching the TCU data on the laptop. Snapchat-322660241.mp4
    • Not until I googled it, now I remember lol. Seems like it's just to clean it up. But it doesn't stop the leak, I have a leak issue though? Thinking whether I need a new bottle, surely not lol.
×
×
  • Create New...