Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all hopefully some one can help me.

I have a Alpine Type R 12" sub, Cadence FXA 1500 amp (500wrms @ 2ohm), 2ga wiring, Response 1 farad capacitor.

Problem is when i adjust the gain i get a rattle noise coming from the sub but only when its mounted (had to modify a box for it to fit) when the sub is out of the box it doesnt rattle at all. I bought the sub in a alpine enclosure but having a R32 the boot isnt accomidating to the box. Even when i put the sub back into the original alpine box i get the same rattle. I have checked all my cables and they are all fine (well they look fine).

As it works fine out side of the box and if its slightly lifted out of the box is this a sub issue or a box issue. The original box had quite a large port in it but the box i have now has a 4" port and 2x2" ports in it.

All of the parts are brand new and have only just been put into the car over the weekend.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282994-sub-rattle-noise-when-mounted/
Share on other sites

Hey all hopefully some one can help me.

I have a Alpine Type R 12" sub, Cadence FXA 1500 amp (500wrms @ 2ohm), 2ga wiring, Response 1 farad capacitor.

Problem is when i adjust the gain i get a rattle noise coming from the sub but only when its mounted (had to modify a box for it to fit) when the sub is out of the box it doesnt rattle at all. I bought the sub in a alpine enclosure but having a R32 the boot isnt accomidating to the box. Even when i put the sub back into the original alpine box i get the same rattle. I have checked all my cables and they are all fine (well they look fine).

As it works fine out side of the box and if its slightly lifted out of the box is this a sub issue or a box issue. The original box had quite a large port in it but the box i have now has a 4" port and 2x2" ports in it.

All of the parts are brand new and have only just been put into the car over the weekend.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Daniel

might be easier to see in person, or photos, you tube to hear it ????

one thing I would guess right off is you dont have the port tuning right on the box to start with, and will destroy the woofer in the end if thats the case ?

porting sounds weird to me, but i'd say you've probably clipped it to death, or over excurted it. take it to your alpine dealer, they'll cut it open and tell you. if its a manufacturing fault, they'll replace it, if you've clipped the asshole out of it, or over driven it, then you have a new paperweight. only way unfortunately.

well it has doing it since day one when i installed it.we tried it in the box it came in which was from alpine and it did the same.it shouldnt be over driven as it can handle 500wrms peak 1000wrms and the amp says it only goes to 500wrms @2 ohm. if it was clipping it should do it when its not in the box? but it doesnt. its really confusing me lol.

if the port tuning was wrong on the box im guessing that could cause it,but it does it in the alpine box it came in?

well if the amp is only 500wrms it'd be easy to clip or underdrive the woofer. like i said, it's only something that can be found by cutting the woofer apart.

and unless the amp is rated 500wrms @ 12v @ 0.005%thd i'd doubt it'd make 500wrms.

Edited by Shiraz200SX

Where abouts are you located mate? if your in adelaide south i can put it through its paces for you and determine a problem with it if any.

Without hearing it personally it sounds like the spider is detaching from the cone, if it did it from day one it could be that the machine that applys the glue missed a spot or something.other than that the only thing that could make that kind of noise would be a problem with the VC,if that was the case it would have probly seised by now.if not it could be your amp introducing the noise.

Have you tryed the sub from another amp or in another car?

EDIT: Oh and 500 rms is more then enough to run the sub. Remember an amp is like a light switch it wont put all its power out as soon as you turn it on. VERY rarely would a sub see full out put from an amp unless your pounding on it consitantly.

And +1 to troys post.

Edited by Jack88

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...