Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on the other hand anyone tried Kumho KU31?

I had them on a previous car, they were a pretty good balance of price, grip, road noise and wear. Actually I did have them very briefly on my current car on the 18's, only drove about 50km and since the car hadn't been registered/insured for about half of that I was taking it pretty easy :D I seem to remember they were the second cheapest tyre in stock size that had the right sizes available front and back but at that size and profile it's more the performance end of the market...

My favourite tyres (previous car again) were Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3's, heaps of grip, really quiet, excellent in the wet but cost a bit more.

I tend to find if you care about performance with tyres, you are better off spending a bit more and getting something good, because if you get crap tyres you've got to put up with them for a long time.

Tire rack I think is ok for a bit of research:

Tirerack 2003 Infinity G35

For example Kumho KU31's aka Ecsta SPT's get a rating of 6.9 but are among much more expensive tyres with similar ratings.

they are a cheap and nasty tyre that belong on korean cars. if you cant afford the tyre then you cant afford the rims. doesnt make a lot of sense to me to spend a lot of $$ on a sports car to put shit tyres on it and undo all of the manufacturers work.

if u want cheap + reasonably good tyres...get the Federal's 595 or Archilles ATR they are cheaper than the nankangs with better grip and less road noise. Dont know about wear rate though coz i've never kept a set of wheels long enough to wear the tyres out.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Cant help you with the Michelin, however I recently (3 weeks ago) replaced my two front tyres from BF Goodrich (came from Japan on the car and the same models are not available in Aus) to Yokahama Advan Sports (245x19 35).

Since changing, it appears the front have WAY more grip. The Traction control kicks in much later; it is now more me that holds back on corners than reaching the point that the traction control kicks in.

I have noticed if I do try to push it to find the grip break point, the rears (Falken FK452 285x19 35) will break first. Not a fan of over-steer but at least I know the fronts are grippy. I am expecting pretty low KM's from these, but I could be wrong.

Only had experience with a little rain thus far, but so far, pretty happy. They are not cheap. I think retail is over 400 each.

nankangs suck what on earth are you guys thinking running shit tyres on a sports car?tyres have a bigger effect on handling than ANY other component.

get the best tyres you can afford,at a minimum something like Bridgestone Adrenalin, Dunlop Sport maxx or Yoko S.Drive or similar..

I had Yokohama Advan Sport which were good,now running Bridgestone RE11s which are really good!

i would consider a better tyre in a narrower size over a crap tyre in a wider size too.

Nankang is probably better than chinese ebay tyres...

if youre like me, and you only need tyres to stop your rims touching the ground and to last forever, then anything chinese is fine. but if you want grip in corners... spend the extra $$ but expect a short tyre life.

ive seen Simex used on the track in the wet and do well.....

i can't fault my Achiles ATR Sports. Had them on the car since September, tread still looks the day that i put them on minus the nipples. I do alot of spirited driving, i don't break traction very often either so that's probably why. But the car is my daily, i am happy with these tyres but my next set would probably be some Federal 595's. Achiles ATR's are a noisy tyre, but i always have windows up music on and aircon so i never notice it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...