Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry guys i came early this morning at around 8:30 but didnt introduce myself as i was on delivery and had to go to croydon

just went past to get soemthing from sam and had the pleasure of seeing the 1600

hehe go the 1600 ;)

What I found most interesting was the power curve of my car compared to say cortide's car, which is dead stock. This fairly linear curve is no doubt due to the extractors - _turtle_'s car with the same extractors as mine (Coby) showed a similar curve. To actually see proof that spending money on my car gives real results is pretty satisfying - it's not all just for noise making purposes :)

All dyno results were taken in 4th gear (except for one of funkys runs).

What I found most interesting was the power curve of my car compared to say cortide's car, which is dead stock. This fairly linear curve is no doubt due to the extractors - _turtle_'s car with the same extractors as mine (Coby) showed a similar curve. To actually see proof that spending money on my car gives real results is pretty satisfying - it's not all just for noise making purposes ;)

Looking at my dyno sheet attached, is my car running too lean or too rich??? Yes i know i asked this about 3 times today already but i forgot!

Yours was too rich i think. i cant remember i think richer was lower.

It was good to see the comparisons.

Power graph

I hope you guys dont mind, this is the graph of the 5 cars for power. So you can see what greg means.

Mine (Blue) - Stock

Gregs and _turtle_ (red colors) - not so stock

from memory Dr_drift said that he tunes turbo cars to 0.8 but n/a's can run a little leaner, I think 0.9 was acceptable??

I don't like tuning turbo's leaner than 0.82 on full boost, but NA cars are under less stress and can run well a little leaner.... I would think 0.9 would be a bit lean for good power, but basically tune the N/A's wherever they make best power between 0.82 and 0.88

Doc.

Hey doc, would advancing the timing a few degrees make any difference?  

Ever since I had my timing belt replaced the car has not been the same, wonder if that could effect anything.

depends where it's at now??

depends where it's at now??

Not sure where the timings at now as i dunno how to rig up the timing gun to it as theres not spark plug leads, i remember someone else told me some other method but dunno.

Anyways its a good indication of how our cars are running, and for those totally stock cars they can compare again next time they have put an exhaust or something on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...