Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The VCT on OEM engines is there to give you the best of both worlds.. top end and low end. It has its' benefits in performance applications but most people don't care.. they just give it more revs before they drop the clutch :D

You guys ever driven a car that had VCT and then got rid of it? SR's and RB's with VCT removed are shit down low. Hell, RB26's are shit down low. Not that many people care about such things on big power cars, but for a daily driver it does makes a difference.

Edited by PM-R33

Maybe your VCT wasn't working because there is a difference. Considering i can control my VCT with the microtech and turn it on or off, yep, there is a difference. Good mate of mine took the VCT off of his S15 because they tend to fail on the SR20 and he regrets it, very noticable power loss down low.

I'd be curious to see how a stock turbo RB26 would go with VCT on it considering i find them quite crap down low for what they are, however that's probably just lag from the twin setup (maybe this aint as bad on a R34, only been in R32 and R33 GTR's).

Edited by PM-R33

I'm in the states right now and a buddy of mine just bought a HKS V-Cam set up for his 33GTR. It has a fairly large single and pumps out 780 odd whp. He made alot more bottom end and especially midrange power with the V-Cam system set up correctly.

I would like simmilar results for my own 26, however I don't want to spend 5-7k on a brand name item.

I have an aftermarket ecu that I will be able to use to controll a pressure controll valve, I will have to get a cam custom cut, line up some oil pasages and use a 25 VCT gam gear? Then spend some (free) time in r and d...

I'm just trying to find out if anyone has had any results (good or bad) trying VCT on a 26 head.

Cheers

J

Maybe your VCT wasn't working because there is a difference. Considering i can control my VCT with the microtech and turn it on or off, yep, there is a difference. Good mate of mine took the VCT off of his S15 because they tend to fail on the SR20 and he regrets it, very noticable power loss down low.

I'd be curious to see how a stock turbo RB26 would go with VCT on it considering i find them quite crap down low for what they are, however that's probably just lag from the twin setup (maybe this aint as bad on a R34, only been in R32 and R33 GTR's).

Baring in mind turning a VCT off is not the same as running a camshaft that is designed to run without any form of VCT.

I can see VCT having benefit on the road with stop start driving in traffic etc which is most likely the major benefit of having it.

IMO correct cam choice and adjustable cam gears is more than enough. In saying this i have never had a direct comparison.

Never saw anything too impressive in comparison with that HKS car either with the 26 VCT.

VCT is not all about low end power guys, its also about the efficiency of the engine, this is due to the overlap of the timing between the intake and exhaust camshafts (small duration favourable at low rpm and larger duration at high rpm, because of the time it takes the air to get into the combustion chamber) so essentially due to the increase in efficiency this also in turn leads to increase power and more importantly torque. personally I do not see to many issues involved with fitting the vct to a 26 head, just a little bit of machining required, but no reason why it would not be feasible, We would like to see this carried out, as it may well turn out to be a good option compared to the hks system and could be every bit as effective.

good luck with it mate, and if we find that anyone has done this will let you know.

you will probably find its cheaper to just use the neo head. why reinvent the wheel?

Exactly, MUCH cheaper infact, probably to the tune of 4k give/take.

For other than the sake of "saying" you have a RB26 head, i see little point in not using the RB26 head if you want the VCT and so on. the HKS V-CAM is too expensive for what it is when you can just put a NEO head on, and get an adapter for the RB26 intake side.

Who cares what head is on there? Does it do a better job, yes. So therefore you use it.

Who cares what head is on there? Does it do a better job, yes. So therefore you use it.

It is the same reason why some people (including me) dont want to use an RB30 block.

If you are sure it does a better job you must know more than most...? >_<

It is the same reason why some people (including me) dont want to use an RB30 block.

If you are sure it does a better job you must know more than most...? :D

I was comparing the 26 head to the 25 head.

VCT vs no VCT... pretty easy especially when the thread is about - VCT on heads

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...