Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, as i said the rear window defogger isnt working right when i need it most -.-.. ive checked fuses and all are ok. ive unplugged the switch connection and cleaned it out so now ive come to this as ive run out of idea's and dont know where the bloody thing is in the car! XD its a R33 gtst.

any comments reguarding testing and location of the defogger its self would be great :rolleyes: cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284309-rear-window-defogger-inop/
Share on other sites

if you didn't know, the defogger/demister thing is actually the lines that run across your rear windscreen. these run a little current through them. check to see if you havent scratched one of them cos if the circuit is broken, it wont work

hey guys, as i said the rear window defogger isnt working right when i need it most -.-.. ive checked fuses and all are ok. ive unplugged the switch connection and cleaned it out so now ive come to this as ive run out of idea's and dont know where the bloody thing is in the car! XD its a R33 gtst.

any comments reguarding testing and location of the defogger its self would be great :down: cheers,

Chris.

Dude... R33's have defoggers? I couldn't see a thing all day! How do they work?

Dude... R33's have defoggers? I couldn't see a thing all day! How do they work?

yea man theres a button next to your hazzard light button. umm ok so pretty much this is the go, the button has a light on it and yeah its not lighting up when i press it hence it not working, any chance it could just be the switch? hmm... this is such a pain in the ass...so it runs from the fuse to the switch then from the switch it runs the current to the defogger lines yeah? i really need to fix this as i might aswel not have a back window atm lol.

get someone to sit in the back seat with a rag

every time you drive when its cold

lol. :D thats hardly practical, yet still amusing :down: i really want to get this dam thing working. im leaning more towards replacing the switch and seeing how i go as thats really the only thing that could be stopping it from working...

ok so

1.Fuse-ok

2.condition of defogger wires- ok

3.switch-who know's..

4.power to switch- how can i test this?

solder or you can get those electrical pens (I got one for other stuff) that can work to join contacts without using solder so you can basically redraw the lines if they have been worn off.

  • 9 years later...
On 8/21/2009 at 2:44 AM, XxNinjaxX said:

lol. :D thats hardly practical, yet still amusing :down: i really want to get this dam thing working. im leaning more towards replacing the switch and seeing how i go as thats really the only thing that could be stopping it from working...

ok so

1.Fuse-ok

2.condition of defogger wires- ok

3.switch-who know's..

4.power to switch- how can i test this?

 

u end up fixing the problem? if so what was solution? cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...