Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, can someone please tell me or direct me to any info on what manual gearbox is in a gts2?

I have been told that the gts2's ran the same box as a r32?

I have already bought a friggin standard r31 box as the gearbox place told me there all the same, but i have just been told that the gts2's had the same box that was behind the rb20et.

Any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284329-gts2-manual-gearbox/
Share on other sites

Hey Paul,

It's Adam here from Status :D

If anyone can shed some light on this scenario it would be good, as we were under the impression all R31 Skylines ran the standard VL/R31 5 speed (haven't done a GTS-2 before). Do you mean to say the RB20DET or the VL turbo RB30ET? Give us a call if you want to get your original box reconditioned, but if it's the VL turbo gearbox then I warn you in advance it will cost significantly more to recondition (depending on problems) as the internals are harder to source and more expensive. If it's the R32 gearbox then it will only cost a bit more than an R31 box.

Apologies for the mix up mate (for anyone reading this, we did give Paul a full refund on the R31 box).

Hey Adam, glad to see your a fellow skyline owner :devil: .

I had a look at the number on the side of my gearbox and it was RP71C #1 which was the same as the box you gave me. So I'm just wondering if you could check what number is on the side of the r32 box you have there (i think you said you had one).

From what ppl have been telling me the r32 box's had RP71C #2 instead of the #1, don't know what the difference is, i can only assume its just stronger or maybe even different ratios. I think maybe my box has been changed at some point with a normal r31 box.

I'll give you a buzz later this week. Thanks for your help to btw.

A series 3 R31 runs a box pretty much identical as the R32 RB20det box except for the second gear synchro(single VS dual???). Series 1 and 2 R31 box's are different too series 3. A GTS2 is a series 3 R31, so following that logic, the box would be almost identical to an R32 RB20DET box.

Suspension wise they had a floating front hub arrangement with larger calipers, and 100mm bolt spacing instead of 90mm, these GTS/HR31 struts are desirable for brake upgrades, or for datsun coilover conversions. Some GTS's had a factory camber/castor adjustable strut top. The rear brakes were as per standard IIRC. They had factory bilsteins, better seats/interior, factory bodykit, ECU chip/remap, stainless steel exhaust and possibly a different cam. GTS1's are all white, GTS2 are all RED.

That is all from memory, go to www.r31skylineclub.com for more info. http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=R31#GTS2 no mention of a different box

Edited by RB_Ryan

Is there any difference in gearing between any of the r31 box's or is it just strength wise. If there is no difference in the gearing then it wouldn't matter what r31 box i put in my gts2 cause strength wouldnt really be an issue cause its only n/a.

I seriously can't believe how hard it has been to try find out what box should be in my gts2. On ebay there is a rb20det box listed, i asked the guy what number was on the side and he told me rp71c #1 where as i thought it should have been #2. The box in my gts2 is the #1 so i have no idea what it is.

I don't know if i should just chuck in the box i was originally going to put in, or if i should put a r32 box in ( as in a #2 box) or rebuild the one thats in it.

On the r31 site there is no mention at all about any gearbox change for the gts2, shorely if it had different trans gearing they would have mentioned that.

As far as I know the only difference between the R31 boxes was vs the VL box where one had dual synchros and one had single. This won't be affected by engine power though, moreso your gear changes and clutch work.

I do have an R32 box here, which, if you get your old box out you can bring it over and compare it with. Housings on alot of Japanese gearboxes are interchangeable so it's not impossible for you to have the housing (and therefore the gearbox number) from another gearbox. Unless you want to buy second hand the easiest way out of it will be to just get your original box reco'd. It usually only takes 2-3 days depending who you get it done with.

Suspension wise they had a floating front hub arrangement with larger calipers, and 100mm bolt spacing instead of 90mm, these GTS/HR31 struts are desirable for brake upgrades, or for datsun coilover conversions. Some GTS's had a factory camber/castor adjustable strut top. The rear brakes were as per standard IIRC. They had factory bilsteins, better seats/interior, factory bodykit, ECU chip/remap, stainless steel exhaust and possibly a different cam. GTS1's are all white, GTS2 are all RED.

GTS2's definately had a different cam, as did GTS1's. Both got stainless steel extractors, and each had a unique set of mags. The ecu's in both cars were standard, but the GTS2's received a piggyback arrangement, I have heard it was due to Bosch not warranting (or more probably, allowing..) a modified ecu.

eightsixboy - For what its worth, I have an R32 RB20DET silvertop RP71C #2 gearbox in my series 3 R31, fitted up fine. I can't comment on any ratio changes etc as the car hasn't been driven yet (undergoing turbo conversion at the same time). I'd be looking for a low-km cheap R32 gearbox as a replacement personally. They will amost certainly be lower km and fresher than an R31 gearbox (unless rebuilt) and possibly have better synchro's, I haven't found information to confirm/deny that, as apparrently some late S3's got the later gearbox (september 89 on, possibly?). I have also heard that apparrently the ratios are slightly different, from what I remember 5th isn't quite as low, slightly more revs for the same speed. I've also heard that the R32 gearboxes have extra webbing over the earlier boxes. My RP71C #2 definately has it, not sure if your box will or won't.

My 2 cents..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...