Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bah those rims either have crap offset with spacers or they are 7" wide with spacers

The spokes on 7s are flush with the lip.

some good 17x9 +20 would fit nicely with no spacers and the spokes sit a good inch inside the lip.

Gen 2 advans would be even better or RA3-DTs

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine are 18x9.5 with 265/35s. dished. gen 2...pretty sure.

iunno.

I hate them.

i would buy them off you if they were 17s

are you sure you have Gen 2s, coz Gen 2 have the spokes bolted to the dish.

i'm sure you would have Version 2s but not Gen 2s

whats the offset on yours anyway? i'm guessing +35 or +38, coz +20 would stick out nicely

It will stay black for now :D I love black cars.

If I run into a lot of money I might go bayside blue or VE green.

Yeah cool!

LEAVE IT BLACK! :D

yay dont have to drive my POS thing lol

Man we still need some pics of your R32 with the new wheels.

Seen it done many times. Very nice.

NewZ3.JPG

NewZ8.JPG

Not bad, KEEP IT BLACK :(

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...