Jump to content
SAU Community

Disabling Rb25det Vct In An R32 Possible Solution?

TRB-001

By TRB-001,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
Posted

Putting this question to the masters on here.

If i was to do the rb30det build with a rb25det head and put it into a r32, to disable VCT and solve the oil supply to the front journal problem, can i simply not plug in the vct soleniod and replace the intake cam and cam gear with a rb20det intake cam and gear?

i have read and searched for months and come across 2 common methods which work well but either require drilling of the head or external oil feeds. If the VCT works by supplying oil thru the cam, thru fins in the gear which push the gear slightly in relation to the cam thus altering timing....wouldnt it be easier to fit the rb20det cam and gear and disconnect the solenoid?

am i overlooking something? will this work?

SLAPS Rising Star

SLAPS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Keep it if you can, the improvement in mid range power is always welcome.

If your concerned about the control of vct grab a NOS rpm window switch, very common in the US and cheap as chips.

http://tinyurl.com/lu6bpm

Edited by SLAPS
TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for the heads up, ill talk to my tuning guy and see how we go with that....

sorry i overlooked the whole supplying oil to the head that has now been welded up part of it.....

so forget the original question, has anyone used these window switches and does it work well?

Edited by TRB-001
JVDSKYRINE Explorer

JVDSKYRINE

Posted
Posted
thanks for the heads up, ill talk to my tuning guy and see how we go with that....

sorry i overlooked the whole supplying oil to the head that has now been welded up part of it.....

so forget the original question, has anyone used these window switches and does it work well?

so once you welded up the oil feed for the vct do you still need to supply oil to it?

and if you are using stand alone tuning software does the vct still work?

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well from wot i can tell, and trust me not many pl have been clear on this...

wen u weld up the oil gallery in the head it stops oil coming up to the vct solenoid thus preventing it from working. u need to supply another feed sumhow (externally or the drill method) to get oil to the front cam journal or else it will starve and fail. that is how iv read it but i could be wrong....

if uv got the oil there and the loom/ecu has the ability to run vct then u can still run it.... problem is the r32 wiring loom has no plug for it and the computer cant run it on its own....

JVDSKYRINE Explorer

JVDSKYRINE

Posted
Posted
well from wot i can tell, and trust me not many pl have been clear on this...

wen u weld up the oil gallery in the head it stops oil coming up to the vct solenoid thus preventing it from working. u need to supply another feed sumhow (externally or the drill method) to get oil to the front cam journal or else it will starve and fail. that is how iv read it but i could be wrong....

if uv got the oil there and the loom/ecu has the ability to run vct then u can still run it.... problem is the r32 wiring loom has no plug for it and the computer cant run it on its own....

So if you are not running VCT you do not need to supply oil to the VCT?

and if you are using a stand alone tuning software would your VCT still work the same as long as you have the vct loom hooked up

I know what you mean I am trying my best to research this stuff on my own but it would help if there were more info on this stuff so I could understand it more

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if your computer had a VCT function and the wiring u use has the plug and wires to the comp, then yeah u can use it providing u supply oil to that gallery.

u need to supply oil there regardless to lubricate the front cam journal.... this is the confusing part becoz sume things i read contradict others.... :S

JVDSKYRINE Explorer

JVDSKYRINE

Posted
Posted
if your computer had a VCT function and the wiring u use has the plug and wires to the comp, then yeah u can use it providing u supply oil to that gallery.

u need to supply oil there regardless to lubricate the front cam journal.... this is the confusing part becoz sume things i read contradict others.... :S

Oh thanks that clear lots up for me. So either way I need to get oil there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...