Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just wondering if any1 has any connections at all with performance shops or any type of mechanic like that because i want to get into the performance scene from scratch but i want to work with jap cars and don't want to join your average Joe workshop and be changing oil for 4 years if you get me...

any advice would be greatly appreciated

even learning to use a dyno and tune cars or what not..

i haven't got a career yet I'm 21 getting a bit old for an apprenticeship but its all i can think of..

thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284921-apprenticeships-in-melbourne/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Yeh same here, im turning 21 in 3 days... and i want to start a career in the same field... i can take off turbo's, do exhaust systems... and other simple modifcations.. performance and stuff...

i want to get into the performance scene from scratch

Don't even think about it if that if you want to get into the trade, not gonna happen, you gotta start at the bottom like everyone else. I've worked in a small local shop and a dealership (currently there now) and you hear good and bad from both sides but the big thing is just the people you work with and you have to have initiative and show your willing to work hard and learn.

I'm currently 2nd year, 3rd in a couple of weeks and the amount of stupid qualified mechanics i have seen come and go is amazing. If you really want to do it, then just work hard for it, learn the basics first, anyone can change a turbo. But be prepared for long hours, hard work, lots of headaches and sfa money :huh:

yes i agree, for the work you do, the pay isnt so good.

but having said that, there is alot of money to be made, you can make an extra 2-300 a week just from backyarders.

and performance to be honest proberly doesnt have a good future.

i work for volkswagen and its a great brand to be in.

its amazing the prices ppl pay and how easy the job may be.

and forgot to mention, if your 21 and older, you get paid mature age wages, so roughly double what a normal apprentice gets.

Edited by WARLORD BAS

Start off @ a major car maker for 2-4 years and then try move over.

No-one will take you off the street, if i owned a performance shop, last thing i want is some green kid coming in and costing me money.

Start off @ a major car maker for 2-4 years and then try move over.

No-one will take you off the street, if i owned a performance shop, last thing i want is some green kid coming in and costing me money.

I would personally prefer to train a clued on person from scratch and have them do everything perfect from the start than take on a guy who has only ever done oil and brake changes for 4 years. Apprectices learn way to many bad habbits these days and don't get the correct training. I know a few guys that work at dealership and when it comes to diversity they don't really know that much. I would know more than some of them!

Apprentices only cost money when they either they descide to do things unsupervised or have not been taught/advised how to do a job properly.

We take people of the street for apprenticeships and we're working on $400k up to $3.5 million dollar helicopters where making any type of mistake isn't an option. And thats the difference. We train young guys to that standard!

Just one main rotor blade is worth more than a R34 gtr and an R35 gtr is just pocket money. A 35 gtr would only just buy the turbine module of the engine minus the FCU, compressor and gearbox. Just the engines are $500k plus. So one mistake can cost the company's I've worked for hundereds of thousands. Not just a $5000 worth car engine parts worst case. In eight years in aviation I have only cost the companies maybe $5k in mistakes which is only one dropped part and one incorrectly inspected part where I missed one a chipped spline which was found during rework. Not bad when I have stripped, inspected, assembled and dyno'd over 200 gas turbine engines and modules. Costing a company $5k for over a few million dollars worth of profit isn't to bad. Never ever had one module fail on the dyno or ever grounded and aircraft due to a mistake made by myself.

I just went door knocking and they took me off the street after a weeks work experiance.

People talk up the performance car scene but like any job its the standard of the guy doing the work that gets you the quality of the job. Workshops that everybody love like Racepace get such a good name because of the quality of the work they produce. Thier machanic must be a smart and maticulous guy. Not leaving banjo fittings loose/hoses off and measuring everything to the ten's of thou is the difference.

It doesn't matter where you come from.

Some people have it and others don't!

If I were you guys I would stay away from working on cars and be a sparky, plumber or get an industrial appreticeship etc and leave the cars to be a hobby. You will earn that much more in other trades and can do cashies! You can then just pay people to work on your cars. I couldn't stand sitting in front of a computer all day or listenning to lectures for 3-4 years after finishing school and found avaition to be a well paid, mainly clean highly respected industy.

Good luck. Just get out there and go door knocking. Its the only way you'll get into a good company and job.

sry might off topic, for the mean time, anyone have any part-time job oppotunities around Melbourne area ? currently 2nd year uni student. Whatever jobs that dont require a cert would be fine, just need some cash, Thanks, hope anyone could help.

Jeff

Im electrician, and even tho tafe is much harder as opposed Mechanics, job is probably cleaner (most times), easier and better pay. Tafe is not easy for electrician (lots have failed and never got license) but if you can do it, i recommend it. In saying that, the trade is not as easy as some make it out to be. Its hard work that pays of eventually.

In saying that, if you love cars and want to work on them, i would go for it, wouldn't care what anyone else thinks!

How many people in the company there Gareth? How many mechanics/technicians in the group?

In the company there would be about 20 in each company but thats in many different areas including all the rework departments and the office people.

On the floor about 6 tradesmen and one or two apprentices usually going at a time at both companies I have worked for full time. It really depends on the type of effort the guys put in with training you. The first company as an apprentice they really pushed quality and took a lot of time to train people but where I am now as a contractor the full time guys don't seem to push the apprentice that hard and don't get up him for doing average work. They should push them to do better work but when the guys above them get lazy and don't spend the time to teach the apprentices, the apprentices don't really have that much of a chance to better themselves unless they get more self motivated in themselves. They can't teach temselves though if they don't understand whats going on. I've recently started spending more time to teach the one where I am now. The more they know and understand, it can be transfered into different areas of the trade and the risk of making mistakes lessens.

Adis my brothers a sparky and had to quit one company becasue they were just using him for labour really as a second year. They wouldn't sign his release papers so he just stopped turning up on time and took heaps of days off until they had had enough and eventually signed them. Lots of rough ins and fit outs where the tradesman would just drop him off and go and do other things usually not work related. Years later he's started a business with one of his old boss's and does more than ok for himself. Payed off in the end big time! Stick with it.

6 full time + 2 apprentice... says it all. 8 in total.

Of course they could afford to take unskilled workers on and train.

It is a far cry from most places that have 2 mechanics, one tuner/fab and that is the entire payroll.

A mech/perf workshop as being discussed here does not have that liberty all the time... and especally in this climate where there isn't a lot of work.

I honestly don't think its going to happen at all. Hence to at least get a start - go to a dealership and at least get a year or two, will make you much more attractive to a business that otherwise isn't necessarily looking

thats the qusetion, do u take a job because u enjoy it or for the experiences it allows u to have outside work, I did 2 yrs on euro cars and 6months at nissan, then a performance shop, which was right time right place, ill tell u know, dealerships are shit boring and if ur an apprentice ur definately a shitkicker lucky to be doing an oil change, maybe a boring tedius major service. My advice, if u want to grow in business for long period, go dealership, but if ur after serious skills stay away from dealerships. u learn 1 brand. I learnt far more at independent co working on all makes and at the performance shop, than I could of at a dealership in twice the time. Its all relative, where u want to go, what knowledge u want, and yes theres not much money in the technician side of the trade, unless ur in heavy diesel, sparkies, plumber earn heaps more, my mate is a refrigeration service tech, earns top dollars and has it very easy

Edited by Dorifta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...