Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make sure they are dead straight with no bumps or kinks in the body. The cost of repairing a slightly bent or bumped one is more than the value of the set and the quality of drive is unacceptable if they were accident damaged

Go the widest (ie 50mm is better than 40mm) you can afford.

decide if you want height or rebound adjustable or both. I see no value in height once you set your height to your setting thats it. plus everytime you adjust your height you must get a four wheel alignment.

Look at good brands

Worlds best are Ohlins and DMS.

Then they go down all the way to brands that are worse than the OEM.

make sure that the new price is not less than second hand price, Ive seen Teins advertised for higher second hand than new.

I run top of the line Ohlins and think they are the ducks guts.

  • 1 month later...

hi guys, read my bilstein/kings springs review!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33660

obviously if you can afford ohlins, then go for it, i also hear these are the best.

As stated already above, ride height adjustability isnt all that great, i never adjusted mine... Also the damping control/adjustability isnt what a lot of people think. Just because a shock has 16way damping from hard to soft, doesnt mean you can set it soft one day for cruising and hard for though the hills. From talking with lots of suspension places i was told this more than once (the general gist):-

"unless you have adjustable spring rates like on a race car, you dont need adjustable shock rates. You set the damper rate according to the spring rate you are running. If you decide to change the damper rate then you will either be over damping or underdamping. If you do put the settings to harder for firmer suspension, it will feel firmer, but this is not the way to do it"

ive been the 2nd hand coilover route, and i personally wouldnt recommend it when you can get NEW suspension for similar money. Also said above, jap coilovers arent suited to aussie roads! I had heard this before i bought mine, but figured that so many people use them that it'd be ok. I found out the hard way!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...