Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I don't post much on these forums anymore- life just gets too busy! Anyhow, I'm looking to save for a house deposit and sadly this means that the skyline needs to go.

Carsales link with photos:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...&__Qpb=true

Details:

Location:

Picton, South-West Sydney NSW. Around 1 hour from Sydney CBD by car, off the Hume Highway via M5

Price: $11,200

Specifications:

-1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T 2 door coupe

-5 speed manual

-Wine red colour

-100,000kms

-Climate control

-Electric windows/mirrors

-Tinted windows

-Factory rear strut brace

-Factory 16” alloy wheels

-Nismo shift knob

-Rego to July 2010

-3 point immobilizer, keyless entry

Modifications:

-Xforce cat-back exhaust system (not overly loud)

-Xforce high-flow cat

-Front-mount intercooler

-Apexi pod filter in enclosure

-Greddy Type RS blow-off valve (plumbed back)

-Trust heavy duty timing belt, genuine Nissan water pump (fitted at 88,000kms)

-Walbro 500hp fuel pump

-Whiteline front and rear swaybars

-Project Mu front and rear brake pads

-ADR approved braided brake lines

-Silicone radiator hoses

-New fan and air-conditioner belts

-Front strut brace

-Radiator air deflector

-Turbosmart boost tee mechanical boost controller (set at 9psi)

-Apexi Super Neo piggyback ECU (professionally dyno-tuned)

I have paperwork / receipts relating to all the above.

I am the first owner in Australia, having purchased the car with 77,000kms in stock standard form. Cosmetically it remains stock standard. Car is always warmed up/cooled down before/after driving. I am a mature, non smoker, non-p plate driver and have never driven the car aggressively.

Car is in great condition inside and out. It does however have some minor paint faint/deterioration (mainly boot lid and spoiler), but the car has never been in an accident. It has a Japanese Kenwood CD/Radio that came with the car- this doesn’t pick up Australian radio and doesn’t appear to play cds properly.

Professionally tuned on the dyno to produce 170kw at the wheels at 9psi- a very safe, reliable tune that suits this car as it is my daily driver. Serviced every 5000kms. Modifications are as listed above, and all have been professionally installed and tuned by performance workshops.

Reason for sale- looking to place a deposit on a house.

Contact details:

Ben

As mentioned, I'm not on here much so please contact me via email if you are interested or have any questions.

Thanks,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284983-1996-r33-gts25t-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...