Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Knore,

Do you mean EVERYTHING? As in all internal engine work, bolt-ons (turbo, FMIC etc...) & all lines polishing and so on...??? If so I'd take a few months at a rough guess. Sourcing all the parts, getting the time to do the work & then setting everything up can easily blow out to faaar longer though!

If you mean just the appearance stuff, then ~2-3wks.

All the best with it, which ever way you decide to go mate.

Hip,

Naa not finished yet. Still got a few more little things up my sleeve. The fuel lines & Speedflow fittings are yet to be done (see f/hose on inner LHS guard). The polished turbine heat shield is yet to go on. A few more silicon lines, new stainless clamps etc... Polished radiator air guide. New seats will go in early in the new yr too.

The list is endless...... :)

f*ck your cars clean whatsisname!

ohh you missed a spot on the firewall just behind the turbo :)

Doh! LOL :) Nice pick up! That's an area normally obscured by the dump pipe (off ATM being modified) Thanks for pointing it out, I'll give the area a once over :)

Mattress-The car is looking sweet dude.Are you still going to fit the Ricermatic? :D  :)  

           -congrats on the posting aswell.Damn that means i have to put up with Tania for a lot longer! :)  :)  

catch up with ya soon

G'day Matty,

Thanks dude :)

Mate I might go with 3 x Ricermatics, should be good for 15-20rwkw each! :)

Yeah we're stoked on the posting/promotion. More $$$, a nice fat lump sum payment, & best of all 3+yrs more in the defect capital of OZ - Adelaide.

You'll have to put up with Tan & me :D Well you see me & put up with Tan :) hahaha

Cheers mate.

Here's the new pic -

mypic16.jpg

No coolant, just water for the run in phase.

It'll go straight on the dyno, but only for a basic check & a bit of load to help with ring bed in.

It'll be a few wks before any serious dyno work takes place.

I've just put 700 kms on mine - It's sweet as ! Has the best exhaust note eva and power - sheeez - Only running 9 PSI and I reckon it has more power than the old motor running 14 PSI.

Yeah - same re Serious Dyno work !

Hope to hear about your results soon whatsisname.

Cheers,

Joel, I have found they tend they start to feel more responsive, rev easier and pull harder, but I have only run in 2 engines, and it could be a case of wishful thinking.

Then again, I rode my brothers new bike (picked it up), then again in a couple of months and it definately felt alot more responsive.

I hadn't actually Hip! :D

Edit - Ok... you busted me Steve :D

Well I picked the car up yesterday (15Dec) & after 80k’s it already feels soooo good to be driving a Skyline again! The down side is having to do 2000k's of painfully tame running in mileage :)

The engine starts & runs as if it were still stock on the inside (nice & smooth - nil piston slap). It actually feels "more" responsive than I recall, possibly helped by a dump pipe change & lighter reciprocating mass. It also still has plenty of RB25DET off-boost torque, something I’ll be using a lot in the next few 1000k’s.

I might see a few of you in the hills in the coming wks, I’ll be the one driving very sedately: )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...