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R32 Gtr With Forgies Or Stock R33 Gtr Engine

Jez13

By Jez13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
Posted

I have an R32 GTR with power fc and N1 Turbos (brand new) exedy clutch, sard injectors etc. Stock internals. My N1 oil pump blew and sent all its bits and peices through my engine and scored my piston walls. Which means I have no choice but to rebuild. So I was given 2 options for fixing it.

a) Bore it out to 2.8 with rods and pistons - plus a complete rebiuld changing all bearings, gaskets (tomie), piston rings etc.

Total cost: about $3000

b) An engine swap from an Autotech stagia with 80,000ks on it.

Total cost: Free (under warranty).

What I use the car for:

I drive in busy traffic from the hills district to Regents Park every day for work. Some weekend travel also.

So, any recomendations or advice would be great especially from those who have or have had forgies.

Cheers guys!

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have an R32 GTR with power fc and N1 Turbos (brand new) exedy clutch, sard injectors etc. Stock internals. My N1 oil pump blew and sent all its bits and peices through my engine and scored my piston walls. Which means I have no choice but to rebuild. So I was given 2 options for fixing it.

a) Bore it out to 2.8 with rods and pistons - plus a complete rebiuld changing all bearings, gaskets (tomie), piston rings etc.

Total cost: about $3000

b) An engine swap from an Autotech stagia with 80,000ks on it.

Total cost: Free (under warranty).

What I use the car for:

I drive in busy traffic from the hills district to Regents Park every day for work. Some weekend travel also.

So, any recomendations or advice would be great especially from those who have or have had forgies.

Cheers guys!

do a) as i cant even buy the parts (crank rod pistons) for $3000, thats a 8k -10k package. let me know who can do it for that as i will buy a couple of internal kits off them.

Edited by URAS
Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
  • Author
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do a) as i cant even buy the parts (crank rod pistons) for $3000, thats a 8k -10k package. let me know who can do it for that as i will buy a couple of internal kits off them.

Its that cheap because its mostly covered under warranty. The 3k isn't entirely the issue its the 'everyday driving' and econonomy and reliability factors are my main concern. I am not really the sort of person that gives the car bootfulls all the time, I am more of a cruiser so I don't really care about huge power gains and stuff.

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

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If it's only going to cost you 3k for a built 2.8.. then I'd be going for that..

Ok, I understand that I am getting a bargain with this rebuild package. I am very fortunate and well looked after but I really need to know if it will still be suitable for an everyday driver. Keeping in mind that I take excellent care with my cars by constantly maintaining them, warming them up and cooling them down and not going past 1/4 throttle for the first 15 minutes of driving (yes I am slightly obsessive). How long would a forged engine last? Does it get over heating problems? For instance when I drive home from work on a 40 degree day stuck in traffic for an hour.

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
go the 3k 2.8L, there is no replacement for displacement.

No replacament for displacement..? So should I save up and put a 350 chev in it? (Thats a joke...sarcasm was used, i will not be putting a 350 chev in it)

Edited by Jez13
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Didnt he say "bore it out to 2.8 with rods and pistons" not "get 2.8 with rods, pistons and stroker crank" and since you cant get to 2.8 with a bore alone i'm guessing he's not getting 2.8 unless he's already running the 2.8 crank. Jez is that the case?

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

2.8 for sure man. theres not even a question in that. haha Plus the fact u get to keep your engine numbers all matching, no need to screw around with the rta and all that crap.

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
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Didnt he say "bore it out to 2.8 with rods and pistons" not "get 2.8 with rods, pistons and stroker crank" and since you cant get to 2.8 with a bore alone i'm guessing he's not getting 2.8 unless he's already running the 2.8 crank. Jez is that the case?

Yes this is the case. He never mentioned a crank. He just said pistons and rods but for a 2.8 litre. Unfortuneately for everyone on here supporting the forged option (i think its actually everyone that has posted thus far) I have gone for the Autotech Engine (apparently identical to the R33 GTR). I get to keep my nismo injectors, N1 turbos, external oil cooler and my power FC.

My reasons to support this decision is because I am not a person who cares for monster power and I would prefer my car to be as stock as possible for daily commuting **dodges rotten tomatoes thrown at me**.

Takahashi GTR Rising Star

Takahashi GTR

Posted
Posted

3k for 2.8 kit is impossible. The crank alone will cost more than that.... Then you have pistons, rods and the build. So unless someone is willing to take up the cost for the rest I think its just a dream.

karmine-ent Explorer

karmine-ent

Posted
Posted

Your crackin it arnt you mate, I cant stand people like you.

Any normal half brained guy would choose a 2.8 over a stock R33 engine. ESPECIALLY if your only going to nanna the car, if your not going to DRIVE it SELL IT! GTRs are ment to be driven hard, grow a pair and Dont bullshit on forums mate, seriously....Annoying

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

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3k for 2.8 kit is impossible. The crank alone will cost more than that.... Then you have pistons, rods and the build. So unless someone is willing to take up the cost for the rest I think its just a dream.

It would normally cost alot more than 3 grand. Most of the costs are covered by my warranty (labour etc). I think I am only paying for the parts which they get at a very good price.

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
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Posted
Your crackin it arnt you mate, I cant stand people like you.

Any normal half brained guy would choose a 2.8 over a stock R33 engine. ESPECIALLY if your only going to nanna the car, if your not going to DRIVE it SELL IT! GTRs are ment to be driven hard, grow a pair and Dont bullshit on forums mate, seriously....Annoying

Thanks sir for your excellent opinion. In five years and accross a hanful of cars I have blown 4 diffs, 3 gear boxes, 2 blown motors (well now 3). Most of my initial breakages were from driving a car like it was stolen. I used to flat change my first car at 13,000rpm on a daily basis (I was 16). Times have changed and I haven't lost my cahunes, I have just become more mature and responsible with my driving. Not to say that I dont give my car a boot every now and then for a bit of fun, like when you hit the motorway you try to find out how fast you can hit 100 ks from 30.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

I would go the 2.8litre because you know the condition it will be in just built with strong internals, I assume forged pistons et cetera and you have the option of getting a lot more power in the future if you choose to (with less $$$).

Unless your very short on money right now :)

Even better, I'll pay you 4K and you can have my R33 RB26 and I'll take the 2.8litre built engine :ninja:

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Not to say that I dont give my car a boot every now and then for a bit of fun, like when you hit the motorway you try to find out how fast you can hit 100 ks from 30.

Ignore that other poster, SAU encourages real men/women on these forums who take it to the track/DECA for real speed :)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

dude, he is selling you a pipe dream. all he's going to do is bore out the engine and fit some 88mm pistons and call it a 2.8. all it is really is a weaker 2.6. there is no way you can safely bore an RB26 out to 2.8 litre. a "proper" 2.8 involves a stroker crank, you increase the STROKE to get the added displacement (this also changes the bore/stroke ratio which changes the nature of the engine making it more 'torquey' less 'peaky'). all you're getting for your $3000 and 'warranty money' is you currently stuffed engine bored out as far as possible with some cheap forged pistons thrown in. it may still be a good deal IF and it's a big if, it's built properly. given they are making no money on it I personally have my doubts. my advice would be ask for a comprehensive list of what exactly is going into this $3000 forged 2.8 litre engine and what bore size etc? are they re-using your scored block? questions like that.

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