Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok , Ive been a bit slack on request for info due to lifes ups and downs.

so here ya go , its a work in progress during my build up process of a show car for Audio Comps. SPL and SQ on my R34 GTT

Steps for passenger door first

1.Open the windowDoor-passenger-R34.jpg

Step 2

Locate the little plugs on the door panel below, insert a blunt object and gently push in on the middle bit. it will push in and snap, pull the outer ring off and dont loose the 2 parts.rear-plug-view.jpg

Step 3. remove the front plug, same process.front-door-plug-location.jpg

Step 4. locate the little black plug in the handle cup(see photo) pry up with a small tips screwdriver to access the Phillips head screw under it. remove the screw

door-screw-1-handle-cup.jpg

Step 4. Remove the handle cup

cup-screw.jpg

cup-handle.jpg

Step 5. Locate the front screw behind this panel, it pops out just like the last one. use care not to scratch the door panel.

Door-passenger-R34.jpg

screw-door-front.jpg

Step 6. Gently pry up around the door handle, if required use a flat thin object , but use extreme care not to tear or scratch the door skin. it will unsnap with care, dont force it. remove the two screws shown in photo 2

door-handle-1.jpg

door-screws-2.jpg

Step 7. Snap off the door skin gently, by walking your hands around the bottom portion and pulling . it should unsnap then hang by the top bit near the glass, at this point pull it up towards the sky. and lay the corner on a towel so you dont scratch up the bottom corner while removing the plugs for the power windows.

Step 8. to remove the window switch plug, push into the location in the photo while pulling backwards on the wiring, it should unsnap the power wires from the switch. (I removed the switch first for photos only, not best practice for noobies)

power-window-switch.jpg

very well done and helpful guide, will be installing splits this weekend :P

I have a bit more then just splits going into the doors, rebuilding/molding the door panels in carbon fiber (bottoms portion ), black suede inserts and carbon fiber switch plates

wiring up some more alarm goodies in the doors(secret stuff..lol)

LEDs to light the switches up and door marking lights , I have 4 speakers going into each door, 2 sets of crossover networks. and more sound deadener

  • 4 months later...

Great tutorial. You said you would be doing the driver door next. Do you have pics / tutorial of that? Is it any different from the passenger side? e.g. does the handle need to be removed as this is different from the passenger side.

Great tutorial. You said you would be doing the driver door next. Do you have pics / tutorial of that? Is it any different from the passenger side? e.g. does the handle need to be removed as this is different from the passenger side.

yeah sorry mate,, I've been a bit busy to upload the photos and write it up.. the drivers door is slightly different mounting and wiring but not something most people could figure out if you take your time... I wont be able to upload my photos till next week sometime..

thanks

Have those door trim inserts been re-done? or did they come like that in the S2 R34s?

they come with the crappy silver inserts, they attract dirt and water spots out of thin air, which is why they got binned, now sporting black suede with custom logos, 3D effects in the door panel as well. and carbon fiber lower door panels with 2 pairs of 6.5" and 1 of a kind carbon fiber horn tweeters

the seats and steering wheel also has the silver inserts from the factory, and they come with VSPEC 2 alloy pedals, slightly more torque and power with different cams and a few other mods from the factory , lower emissions. and the gay looking front bar too..hahaha

which reminds me I have a new full body kit in the shed if it cools off enough to paint it..lol 43c today,, bloody heat sux

  • 1 month later...

I was after the passenger side, as the drivers side one I was able to use a flathead screwdriver to pop it out...

Yes please! Thank-you so much!

  • 1 month later...

Thankyou very much for this post Troy, it made things much easier for me taking off my drivers side door trim to fix my window. Saved me having to figure it out :devil:

I hope you don't mind but I've taken a couple of pics for the Drivers side door just incase anyone else was wondering about how to do it even though its pretty much the same. And also how to get the switchplate out.

Oh yeah, just a quick heads up for others taking off their trim. Those clips that you push the centre in, be careful not to push too hard as it will go all the way through and fall inside the door skin. Can be a pain to find them in there. Other than keeping that in mind its very simple job to get the trim off

post-44229-1270352137_thumb.jpg

post-44229-1270352162_thumb.jpg

post-44229-1270352183_thumb.jpg

Edited by Scottydoo
  • 1 year later...

It's the first time I have looked at removing my door panels on my 34, and was lost trying to work out how the get the arm rest loose with out breaking something.

I am replacing the speakers on my doors, this is exactly what I needed!!

just to have a visual of where it was clipped down from.

Great post mate :thanks:

If you did, I reckon you eould have a few followers, me included. I have found that it is not as easy as you might think to dig up how-to vids on the 34. I always prefer to learn a bit about whatever project or mod that I'll be doing next, that way you don't need to repeat somebody else's mistakes.

If u have any good resources, links or advice, feel free to pass em this way

:cheers:

  • 1 month later...

Good guide but I can't work out how to take off the passenger window switch surround. That's the only part I want to take off. I have removed the door handle cover but I still can't work it out. Any help would be great thanks!

did you notice the screw under the door panel holding it on ? take off door panel and remove phillips head screw which holds the metal clip down, dont loose it. and carefully slide it out, without breaking the front pin off

you cant get to the screw without the panel off, and loose. unplug switch first to make it easy to get out.

Hey guys.

I'm having some trouble with plug in 'scottydoo's' second photo. If someone could explain to me how you get the f**ker to come out it would be much appreciated.

Cheers!

push the plug in then push the pin down. a small flat screw driver can push the pin down while your other hand pulls , it should come out after you push it in first, gives it that extra room to push the pin all the way down ,

the metal clip on the trim ring should be taken off , it breaks really easy and once broken they can be impossible or expensive to find . just for safety sake hint

the pin is just like my photos only a bigger plug

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...