Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Then suddenly you make it stock for stock, then it's suddenly an exhaust + boost vs a modified Honda, now it's "let's use completely stripped out and worked honda's to show how awesome they are"

I have no problem with the whole they can go, but really, they don't for all the hype they get.

Like comeon, why buy a honda, bolt ons and strip it to run 12s, when instead you could buy a commodore, throw an exhaust on, wack a cam in, and go run flat 11s?

That vid was in answer to the stripped K20A Civic racing a 400hp Supra, people called BS - so I showed what a K20 Civic in a stripped EG goes like. I realise its different to what the threads about, but hey other people are doing it so why not :) The engine internals in that Civic are completely stock...

In terms of changing what I am commenting on, its in response to other people... I've just been keeping the facts straight. I obviously own a Skyline and prefer it as my toy, if you'd been paying attention you'd realise depending on the level of mods I was actually saying the Skyline would win by a fair margain... just correcting people when they make statements which are a bit misguided :P

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I didn't say cars full stop, but its clearly obvious you and a lot of the other people here know very little about Hondas.... that Civic is powered by the same motor as in the car this thread is about and as I have mentioned before, have huge potential with boltons.

I was pretty much expected people to be in denial about that K20A vid, so here's another which shows a time etc:

113mph is NOT no top end, I am unaware of anyone getting that kind of trap speed using a stock turbo on an RB25 without NOS... so no, I don't have trouble understanding what people are trying to tell me - I'm just making the mistake of getting into a debate with someone who clearly knows so little about the topic that they don't realise they're wrong.

Slicks??? stripped and modded.

shitload of headwork to get that time im sure but kudos to the car, love the k20 motor n given credit where due but its jst the honda fanboys who believe they are the be-all and end all of performance is what rattles my tree. lolz

anyways: skyline or supra with slicks, stripped, running a high flow turbo and supporting mods would probably run that same time or better for cheaper.

I really wanna see both unstripped, both manual, both on street tyres then we can compare n give a congrats to the quicker car.

shitload of headwork to get that time im sure but kudos to the car, love the k20 motor n given credit where due but its jst the honda fanboys who...

Agreed - fanboys (and haters) both annoy me a lot which is what is driving me to respond to this thread a lot. That car will have no headwork, a mate of mine hit 11s with an EG Civic with a completely unopened K20A - yes stripped and on slicks though. He put some big cams in there (bolted in, no headwork) and got an 11.3 out of it.

anyways: skyline or supra with slicks, stripped, running a high flow turbo and supporting mods would probably run that same time or better for ?cheaper

Agreed - which is why I mentioned stock turbo.

I really wanna see both unstripped, both manual, both on street tyres then we can compare n give a congrats to the quicker car.

Yeah that would be very interesting, I'd say it should be a good race. Still haven't changed my view on it - stock for stock it'd be close, exhaust and filter on both the R33 starts getting the edge, but exhaust and filter on one and not the other would result in the more modded one winning.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...