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Hey guys

Car is 1989 r32 gtst, vg30 turbo, largish front mount, 3 inch straight through exhuast, pod filter, stock BOV

Boost question First,

my 32 gtst, is running 12psi boost from vg30 turbo, (according to boost guage)

i dont think it has a bleed valve . so im just wondering why the boost is so high.

and also if i get a manual boost controller with a bleed valve would i be able to lower the boost or only raise it?

if thats the case how do i lower it?

id like to get a dual stage controller to run 7-8 for low n 12-14 for high.

Clutch question,

when i boost in 1st in the dry it will spin the wheels, when i boost in second in the dry it will usually spin the wheels,

when i boost in 3rd in the dry,(maybe half to 3/4 throttle) it will all of a sudden rev out, asif the clutch is spinning, n it sure doesnt feel like wheel spin.

I found a receibt in the car for the clutch being done a few years ago, the clutch kit itself was $220, so im assuming its standard.

is the clutch freeplay adjustable and how? and also what would you guys rrecommend as a clutch upgrade, i would like something heavy that can take a thrashing, but is ok for street use, willing to spend up to 4-500 hundred for the kit, i guess.

anyone done the clutch themselves before?

do-able with jack stands? or should i save up more n get a place to do it?

And Headlight question.

My headlight connections are abit dodgey, the wires comming to the back of the globes are spilced off an old connecter?

are there late model and early model ehaqdlights? mine is an 89 model, so iw as thinking mayube sum1 put late model headlights in it,

?

-Thanks

-Alex

Hi mate... I'll take a stab at some of these questions...

I don't know anything about those VG turbos, but I'd guess the wastegate on those could be set at 12 psi? If you got a boost tee, you could turn the boost up or down, I think most of the entry level controllers are good up to around 20psi (give or take - I could be wrong).

You could very easily get a dual stage boost controller, I'd recommend an electronic one and getting it professionally installed and set to 8/12 pounds.

As for clutch, I had mine replaced about 4 months ago with an Exedy OEM replacement (and machined my flywheel - not lightening though), it's a bit bitier than the stock one and I like it, but I've burnt through a fair bit of it already and my car's not a massive powerhouse. Cost around $700-$800 for parts + install if I remember correctly. If you want one that will take a beating, go heavy duty, but expect to add another few hundred on top of that price.

For your headlights if you're pretty handy you might be able to get some new lenghts of wire from any auto shop and run new wiring (even if it's just where the connections are dodgey) and replace the metal tabs/connection points too (might have to go somewhere like dick smith electronics for these parts). A soldering iron/electrical tape/heatshrink tubing will be your friend here.

well actually the guy i bought it off said it was running 10 pound, and a receibt from a service i found in the car also said "Chekced boost, no bleed valve, running 10 psi"

but it definitly gets up to 12 on my calibre boost guage(i think theyre a cheapy) when i boost in 1st second and 3rd, but maybe that guage is abit off and it is running 10

thanks for that info,

what is a boost tee? am i able to reduce the boost lower than wat it is running already without a bleeder? coz i was under the impression that with a boost controller it can only really be increased?

also if i got a pic of my actuator would people be able to ID it? or antying lol

what price would i be looking at foir something like a decent twin plate clutch,

and with the headlights, yeah im not to bad with the soldering.

but are the're late model headlights and early model? or are they al the same?

boost controller of any sort (bleed, manual, electronic) cannot lower the boost lower than the base pressure set by the actuator. if you want lower boost buy a rb25 actuator, if it fits

Yep, any external boost controller will let you raise or lower boost pressure, as mentioned.

Just get a cheap one and install yourself, very easy to do. I'd say replacing the actuator would be harder.

As for the headlights, I googled 'R32 headlights' and this is the first result that came up: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ons-t37813.html.

Call some mechanics and get a quote for your clutch, best way.

Yep, any external boost controller will let you raise or lower boost pressure, as mentioned.

Just get a cheap one and install yourself, very easy to do. I'd say replacing the actuator would be harder.

As for the headlights, I googled 'R32 headlights' and this is the first result that came up: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ons-t37813.html.

Call some mechanics and get a quote for your clutch, best way.

Any external (electronic?) boost controller will ONLY ALLOW YOU TO RAISE THE BOOST PRESSURE, which was as mentioned previously.

If you want to LOWER then you need an actuator with a lower rated spring.. R33 GTSt is 5psi, R32 GTSt is 10psi..

Replacing the actuator is 2 or 3 bolts. A manual boost Tee is just a ball valve that you put in the wastegate pressure signal hose. An elextronic boost controller is harder to install but easier to use/adjust, requires you to put a solenoid in the boost pressure line and wire into the cabin control unit.

ok thanks for that guys, guess il be after a 33 actuater spring and manual controller, maybe. or i might just leave it how it is if i cant find one easily

D'oh... blonde moment guys, sorry. Yes, the actuator sets your lowest boost pressure. Replace it with an R33 one to get 7 psi (I think?) and then use a manual controller to increase in small amounts from there until you're happy.

mythbusters ahoy!

Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx A ~ B kgcm2 into the hose and make sure the swing valve controller rod operates.

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know

i got an r33, in 4th ive hit 9psi is that possible for a stock r33? its got an exhaust thats bout it.

yea, i got a r34 and its only got a fmic and nismo exhaust, and ive hit 9psi aswell, and i dont have a boost controller or anything. i thought i can only hit 7psi?

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