Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tramlining is mostly caused by wider than std rims and tyres - causing not enough time for water to escape from underneath the tyre...

if you want to eliminate tramlining alltogether, stick to factory 8" width because that's what the car is designed for.

or choose a performance tyre with aggressive pattern to make sure water is expelled quick enough... at the expense of increase road noise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4799164
Share on other sites

I have found a set of wheels that I like for my V35, 18x8.5 front , 18x9.5 rear + 38 offset allround. Is this offset OK? Will it cause "tramlining " or other problems?

Any help appreciated

For a sedan they would be fine, for a coupe no.

Tramlining in some cases is a neccessary evil...u learn to live with it at the expense of wider track and improved handling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4799390
Share on other sites

tramlining is mostly caused by wider than std rims and tyres - causing not enough time for water to escape from underneath the tyre...

if you want to eliminate tramlining alltogether, stick to factory 8" width because that's what the car is designed for.

or choose a performance tyre with aggressive pattern to make sure water is expelled quick enough... at the expense of increase road noise.

Wouldn't that be aquaplaning? and tram-lining be when the straight cuts in the tyre tread catch on things like or if you're in Melbourne actual... tramlines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4799520
Share on other sites

Tramlining is the tendency of a vehicle's wheels to follow the contours in the surface upon which it runs. The term comes from the tendency of a car's wheels to follow the normally recessed rails of street trams, without driver input in the same way that the train does.

Tramlining can usually be blamed on tires, and its incidence depends greatly on the model of tire and its state of wear. Although not normally dangerous, at very high speeds it can become a source of instability.

Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramlining"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4799537
Share on other sites

I have found a set of wheels that I like for my V35, 18x8.5 front , 18x9.5 rear + 38 offset allround. Is this offset OK?

No. The offsets are higher than stock (which is +30). That means your track is narrowed, which is illegal. It also decreases handling. It also sits in, which means it'll look ugly. These threads come up all the time, and its always the same response with higher-than-stock offsets.

Your V35 coupe comes with massive wheel wells that you can put fat rims into. Why squander it by sticking narrow rims with weak offsets on the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4799549
Share on other sites

No. The offsets are higher than stock (which is +30). That means your track is narrowed, which is illegal. It also decreases handling. It also sits in, which means it'll look ugly. These threads come up all the time, and its always the same response with higher-than-stock offsets.

Your V35 coupe comes with massive wheel wells that you can put fat rims into. Why squander it by sticking narrow rims with weak offsets on the car?

Thanks for the info, I admit I didn't understand "offset" .No I dont want to make the car worse than stock , so I will keep looking, armed with better information.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4801278
Share on other sites

in some cars you can get away with aggressive offsets by having a slight toe-in and negative camber (not that the negative camber helps but usually helps when u have a positive toe)... not sure about the alignment specs for the V35 though. Also go for lighter wheels to reduce unsprung weight as this plays a bigger factor to cause a "tramlining feel" than the actual offsets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4801299
Share on other sites

I admit I didn't understand "offset".

Have a read of this.

To paraphrase it, for a given wheel width the lower the offset:

1. The further out the wheel sticks

2. The wider the distance between the centres of both wheels

The first point gives you a better stance, for appearance.

You know how most OEM cars, and sex spec cars, tend to have the wheels deep in the arch? In my opinion, it looks weaksauce and gives the impression that the wheels either don't fit, you stole them off a shitbox that can't run fat wheels, or you can only see in 2 dimensions.

The second point, theoretically, improves handling. The wider the car sits, the flatter it should corner. In reality its a lot more complex than that, since your suspension has been engineered around a certain wheel offset generating a certain force in a certain position and throwing that out too much can actually make your car handle worse, but it should still be better than increasing offset.

Wheel track is the distance between the centres of both wheels. The law states that you can not decrease your track at all, and you can only increase it by 25mm. This means you cannot legally run a higher offset than stock, but you can lower your offset by up to 12mm.

No I dont want to make the car worse than stock , so I will keep looking, armed with better information.

The accepted "maximums" for our cars with stock suspension and unrolled guards is that you can run a 9.5" wide wheel on the front and a 10.5" wide rear wheel, with approximately +20 offset (give or take, most Volks only come with +22 offset in those widths). Roll the guards and get aftermarket camber arms, and you can go to a wider wheel or a lower offset.

The thing is, do you want to look like this?

l_eb46e68b2076f0bcf293481e050a43-1.jpg

Or do you want to look like this?

Dowtownshoot1.jpg

Or maybe even this?

DSC_0448.jpg

If you assume they all have the same width of wheels on the car, the latter two have a lower wheel offset.

In a more practical example to illustrate, the 350Z has basically the same wheel arch clearances as a V35 coupe. Here's what my old 17x8.5 +30 & 17x9.5 +30 look like:

my350z_20060310_gste37_07.jpg

That's already sticking out almost 1cm more than your selected wheels and, to be quite blunt, it looks shit (even if you ignore the too-small 17" diameter). The narrow tyre from the small rim widths, and the high offsets, look like they're off a lesser car.

Compare that to my current setup (which is 18x9.5 +22 / 18x10.5 +22):

my350z_20071013_night_07.jpg

You can see I'm not running a great deal of camber, and my rear guard is un-rolled. I don't get rubbing issues, no matter how hard I corner.

Honestly, if I could drop a few more millimetres out of the offset I probably would. I am getting quite tempted to dial in some negative camber, and fit 5mm spacers.

Remember, wheel are like tits - you always want them huge, and sticking out.

Edited by scathing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4801377
Share on other sites

Though, keep in mind, if you change the offset than the OEM wheels, you will potentially wear out your wheel hub prematurely...

The reason is due to change of weight centre that your wheel hub has to withstand with the aftermarket wheel, increasing the 'twisting' inertia each time the wheel bounces...

having a cost-you-arm-and-leg-japanese-lightweight-forged-rims does help the hub and shocks not keep getting pounded by heavy unsprung weight, but not all rims out there are lightweight forged and not everyone can fork the money to buy a set...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4801520
Share on other sites

Sweet looking car there scathing.

My car as gone the other way, had some pretty chunky spacers in Japan but to get it complied here they got removed. By the sounds of it they altered things to get them on in Japan which got sorted out while complied here. To be honest I'm not looking to get any spacers put back on. If I had it dumped I guess I probably would so it met the guard a bit better but since it's not (speed humps, what speed humps?), I think it perhaps makes the dish look slightly deeper?

Japan with spacers

2.jpg

Here, similar angle, shadow, without spacers:

IMG_1654.jpg

If you prefer the Japan shot though, well get spacers :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285882-wheel-offsets/#findComment-4804801
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...