Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 650
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill meet you guys at lala, much closer to my house than vilis :thumbsup:

cant wait. might need a hand fitting an oil cooler this weekend.

Pussy, I'm leaving Golden Grove extra early to make it, I think you can too :(

ill meet you guys at lala, much closer to my house than vilis :P
Pussy, I'm leaving Golden Grove extra early to make it, I think you can too :(

and ill be going craigmore -> golden grove -> vili's -> mallala.

Im close to pulling out, dont know if the car will be ready on time. If not much changes a week prior to track day than I'm happy to let someone else in to my spot.

I'll take it, I've been rebuilding my 32 gtr track car for a year after a number of blow ups first at Mallala and then a N1 pump let go at collingrove on it second run. "I need some track time"

cant wait myself... :)

20% larger injectors drop in on thurs, along with the f/ic-8 ecu. tune day :whistling:

hoping the stagea feels good. does so far with the wider track rims and wheel align.

brakes will be the downer :D

I am still keen. Found a few problems with the race R33 yesterday at Time attack (brake bias, full pressure etc)

so hoping to have it more sorted for 26th. Need lots of practice with this new set up so looking forward to it.

John, seeing the 33 on the track yesterday was awesome! How many litres of fuel do you use per lap?? The amount of exhaust coming out the side is beyond comprehension!! :/

And Chad - as much as I love your 32 it'd be good to see the Stag out there (minus trailer of course :)), more family spec wagons the better!

Ah, I am not sure at this stage. We are running the car pretty rich until all sorted out.

Is great fun to drive (as you can see I was all over the track) so will have to train the beast

& try to knuckle down & get it consistent.

I am trying to learn the track at the same time as learning to drive the car so have a long

way to go. My main goal is having fun, & not wrecking the car so my first mission out there

was successful. Had a ball & car is in one piece.

There will be no point tuning the car for more power until I can drive it properly so will keep

going for it till then & when James feels I am ready we will put slicks on it & turn up the wick!

This engine is capable of some serious power & the car is very tight & quite light so when the

time is right I will certainly not be weak.

Hoping they open AIR for circuit racing again one day, because I would love a go at the straight

with a run up off the bowl............ now that would be fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...