Opinions Wanted - Manual Conversion Or Buy Autech

[25stagea]

hey guys i have a 97 rs4 that i picked up for 9 k , i also have a spare 25 sitting in a mates shed.

What im trying to decide is do i convert my car to manual and build up a forged 25

Or do i go out and buy a autech.

I have already upgraded my sway bars to adjustable whiteline

And i have done a r33 brake conversion.

My rs4 is in realy good condition and alredy has a standard body kit on ( different to most not shaw what it is )

any opinions on this would be great, also if some one has an autech are they much better ???

[_Ryan_]

motor might not have the AWD sump/block. if you have the parts, then why not manual convert, could be fun. I wouldn't go out of the way to spend the money though personally.

[rb26stagea]

An Autech in good condition will cost you around $20k more than you bought your RSFOUR for, and you'd be looking at a relatively stock car, from what I have seen advertised. If you're not after a RB26, my money would be on the conversion: heaps more performance per dollar spent.

Pics of the bodykit, please!!

[25stagea]

yeah i was going to use the sump of my car and as for the block there is no difference except for what bolts on

I had also considered using a S2 sequential shift auto , i just think the auto's are to slow to shift.

[QWK32]

yeah i was going to use the sump of my car and as for the block there is no difference except for what bolts on

I had also considered using a S2 sequential shift auto , i just think the auto's are to slow to shift.

S2 dont have sequential, its tiptronic, and the shift time even when in tiptronic is pritty average, about the same as the normal auto mode.

[danMcd]

convert car to manual and build up a forged 25!!better the car you no than the one you doint?

[25stagea]

DanMcd you hit nail on the head mate thats waht ive been thinking.

Im gonna go to perth soon and take a test drive in a Autech and see if the money is worth it.

To up grade will cost me about 10-14k more than what my Rs4 set me back so i could build one hell of a stagea for that sort of coin.

I wonder if you could get a stage under the 9 sec mark ha ha

[25stagea]

Rb26stagea i will try to get pics up tomorow

[msports180]

Mate im in Bunbury i have a Autech (well a replica but basically a autech) send me a text and i'll take ya for a spin save ya the trip to perth.

26's are awesome and all but very expensive to repair and mod. Comes down to the budget you want to spend.

[260tech]

DanMcd you hit nail on the head mate thats waht ive been thinking.

Im gonna go to perth soon and take a test drive in a Autech and see if the money is worth it.

To up grade will cost me about 10-14k more than what my Rs4 set me back so i could build one hell of a stagea for that sort of coin.

I wonder if you could get a stage under the 9 sec mark ha ha

Talk to Unique. He knows. Ref standard Autech, RB26 @ ~ 214awhp. Well mine was anyways. Probably worth spending some coin if you already have a beast with factory manual setup to start with, depends how keen you are really.

Cheers GW

[DaveB]

S2 dont have sequential, its tiptronic, and the shift time even when in tiptronic is pritty average, about the same as the normal auto mode.

Yeah second that... it's the upshifts which are the real killer (by which I mean 4th->3rd->2nd etc) - it takes about half a second or more! Also when accelerating, you've gotta select the next gear ahead of time (don't know how - just practice) and this is difficult around redline, where the RB gains revs so fast.

Edited September 2, 2009 by DaveB

[msports180]

Just got back from taking lachy for a drive.

Built 25 and manual conversion

[unique1]

hey mate just make sure that spare rb25 u are gonna build up is from a stagea or it wont have the correct bolt pattern for the awd sump, only the stagea rb25s have both bolt patterns for 2wd and 4wd sumps, where as r33 gtst, etc only have the 2wd bolt pattern.

You can get away with using the r33 rb25 but u will need a 4wd sump adaptor which is about $930 so best to just start with the correct block if you can.

If your gonna bother building up a motor you might as well use a rb30 bottom end i reckon, these heavy cars need all the torque you can get, especially if you upgrade to a decent sized turbo setup. I run a 26/30 with a gt3076r are its great for cruising around, i can go around at 20kmh in 3rd gear without a problem, unlike the old 26 setup and t04z i had.

If it was me i would just buy an autech personally. RS4 stageas have crap diffs, axles, rear cradle isnt good for decent wheel offsets and they are auto, plus brakes are tiny too, so by the time u upgrade to decent suspension, new engine, manual box, bigger brakes, swaybars and then diff, axles you could have an autech and its a hell of alot easier. Things add up soooo quick when doing upgrades you will get a big suprise. At the end of the day if your talking built engines etc then i wouldnt waste my time with a rs4 when there is something available with all the good bits in a factory package. I would like to know why an rb26 cost more to build and modify than a rb25? its actually cheaper, you can use stock rods and bolt on low mount turbos which saves alot of hassles, plus the added bonus of readily available second hand performance bits like injectors and clutches, etc. Rb25s and rb26s still have the same amount of pistons and rods

Trust me ive been there and done that along time ago

Edited September 9, 2009 by unique1

[darrinspencer]

I would like to know why an rb26 cost more to build and modify than a rb25? its actually cheaper, you can use stock rods and bolt on low mount turbos which saves alot of hassles, plus the added bonus of readily available second hand performance bits like injectors and clutches, etc. Rb25s and rb26s still have the same amount of pistons and rods

I argee. Everyone that rebuilds a RB26 thinks they need to build it to handle 1000hp. Alot are built with too much overkill, hence huge rebuild costs.

They forget their factory built rb26 with cast pistons etc, has lasted 20 years now and did/can handle safely 300rwkw. Just need to be realistic with your goals.

[cefiro]

I got an Autech, was thinking about getting a rs4 but the power goal I wanted was going to cost more in the end than buying an 260rs. Just think what you want in terms of power and cost. maybe worht getting a 260rs. Easier to build a rb26 up for more power than a 25.

[msports180]

I told him to talk to you brad! Basically everything i said to him, your the man in the know.

I think he wants to build it up over a period of time, hence going the 25 route, instead of laying down a heap of coin at once.

He has a RB30 block to.

[Stinky Rooster]

Like Brad said though, the 30 bottom end wont have the AWD bolt pattern, so you will still be up for the added cost of the adaptor before you get to look inside the engine. Plus, dont forget the failings of the GT4 based AWD system, abysmal C34 brakes, axles, diff etc etc etc. Its not setup for the higher torque loading you are planning on putting it through.

Unless, of course a 2WD conversion is on the cards as well....

just sayin'

[danMcd]

Like Brad said though, the 30 bottom end wont have the AWD bolt pattern, so you will still be up for the added cost of the adaptor before you get to look inside the engine. Plus, dont forget the failings of the GT4 based AWD system, abysmal C34 brakes, axles, diff etc etc etc. Its not setup for the higher torque loading you are planning on putting it through.

Unless, of course a 2WD conversion is on the cards as well....

just sayin'

Im doing 5 speed and 2wd conversion on my s1 next week will let you no how i get on.

[unique1]

i ran mine is 2wd with about 345rwhp and snapped an axle from a 2nd gear roll on, it wasnt even from a launch, the axles are pretty bad unless i just got a dud one, the size differences to gtr/260rs is huge, same with the uni joints as well.

As i said with an engine build, the rb26 is the cheapest option i think from 25, 26 or 30 because u dont need an adaptor plate and can use stock rods for upto 500rwhp+. Throw a set of $1000 forgies in and some acl race series bearings, arp rod bolts and a decent oil pump and the motor will be fine for 500rwhp no problems, bolt on some low mounts for $2500 and it looks stock and goes like hell, plus u can reuse your oil and water lines and the exhuast all lines up. Clutch and fuel setup is obviously needed but thats needed with any combo.

rb30 will need rods and pistons and adaptor plate for that sort of power, and a rb25 will need valve springs, etc i assume at that power level, so the smart combo is definately rb26 head atleast, and then decide which bottom end u want. Dont forget a built 26 is gonna sell alot easier than a built 25 combo so remember that when you want to sell it or buy a gtr and put it in because the stagea is too heavy

[msports180]

So i should sell him mine then?