How To Adjust Rear Camber?

[xscape237]

Gents.

One of my rear wheels (thats right, only one) is scrubbing on the guard when i've got people in the back seat.

I figure that it doesnt happen on the other side because it must have very slightly more negative camber.

Is it possible to adjust the rear camber at home, and if so, any tips?

Thanks in advance.

And before you suggest I head out to get a wheel alignment, im just after a quick temporary fix. Wheel alignment is coming soon along with new tyres.

[Stephen Thorpe]

don't do it at home... just stop putting people in the back, put them on the good side!

Check tyre pressures...

Think laterally. Is it really the camber, maybe it is a soft shock, shorter spring, the camber of the road, the weight of the people in the back and is it really the tyre and not some other noise.

[xscape237]

Thanks Stephen.

It doesnt matter which side the people sit in. A "large" passenger in the front seat has the same effect.

Tyre pressures are OK.

Springs are the same on both side (aftermarket RSR Ti2000). Shocks are nismo s-tune. Both appear fine.

The scraping doesnt occur when I run the standard 18s. These 20"s are in a much more agressive offset.

The RHS appears that it could JUST BARELY tuck under the guard over bumps, where as the LHS looks like there is no chance. This is why I think I can dial in a tiny bit more neg camber on the LHS and it will be OK.

[whtbox]

fender rolling is the only wat. what is your size on you wheels? the width play effect too. mine is 10.5 rear with 22+ offset and 275 tyre scrub with passenger as well. fix the scrubbing by fender rolling.

[Stephen Thorpe]

Perhaps your diff and rear axle (bushes) are kicked to one side slightly.

Should be absolutely central unless it has taken a knock. Would still suggest that you take it to a professional. Maybe you could take some measurements first and see how much it is.

Use some straight edges on the face of the wheel and see where the guard sits...

Seems very odd, unless something is installed incorrectly.

If there is 'No Chance' that the wheel will clear on the left, I would have thought you will not get enough adjustment by just negative camber adjustment. Not sure you can use much more than 1 degree negative and it is a dangerous not doing it correctly.

Pick up a copy of High Performance Imports Issue 110 (High Performance) and take a look in the handling pages.

The maximum -camber is not a large figure

[xscape237]

fender rolling is the only wat. what is your size on you wheels? the width play effect too. mine is 10.5 rear with 22+ offset and 275 tyre scrub with passenger as well. fix the scrubbing by fender rolling.

Thanks.

Rears are 20x9.5 +22, wearing 275/30.

There is JUST enough room to get away with not rolling the guards. However, my plan is to eventually get it done once I fork out for some better rubber (and run less agressive camber).

Stephen, thanks again for the additional ideas.

I dont want to sound stubborn but it really is a camber issue.

I tried to take a photo of the underside of the guard but my photographing skills are sub-par. Once you see the black mark left by the tyre and how close it is to fitting underneath, it will make a lot more sense.

I dont have a protractor (ha ha) but it looks like even 0.5 of a degree may be all it will take.

In any case, with some help I discovered how to adjust the camber but we could not get enough leverage on the bolt. Will get it done tomorrow and report back.

[mosoto]

I'm running 20 x 10.5 + 22 w/- 285's on the rear. Ive got stock camber, had the guards rolled slightly and no rubbing. There is no camber adjustment without going aftermarket and I can't see that being your problem. You must have a rear end alignment problem. Might be worth taking to a pro who can diagnose the issue and possibly fix it.

Edited September 3, 2009 by mosoto

[Oaksey]

I was going to ask if it was the left side rubbing when you take right hand turns, as the turn you take is a bigger arc, higher speed, weight shifts over a bit more..

The RHS appears that it could JUST BARELY tuck under the guard over bumps, where as the LHS looks like there is no chance. This is why I think I can dial in a tiny bit more neg camber on the LHS and it will be OK.

... but I guess not.

[Stephen Thorpe]

I'm running 20 x 10.5 + 22 w/- 285's on the rear. Ive got stock camber, had the guards rolled slightly and no rubbing. There is no camber adjustment without going aftermarket and I can't see that being your problem. You must have a rear end alignment problem. Might be worth taking to a pro who can diagnose the issue and possibly fix it.

I agree completely, especially with the idea that there is "no camber adjustment without going aftermarket".

Unless you have something different, most Nissan's do not have Camber adjustment as standard... I'll stand corrected but that is front or rear from my knowledge.

[n15m0]

I agree completely, especially with the idea that there is "no camber adjustment without going aftermarket".

Unless you have something different, most Nissan's do not have Camber adjustment as standard... I'll stand corrected but that is front or rear from my knowledge.

They do actually but only to a very minimal degree. I had a wheel allignment done on my 35 months ago and rear cambers were corrected slightly. I Also remember my R34 had a little bit of camber correction done as well. It is very marginal but there is a small degree in there. Failing which most people get camber kits. I would not recommend you play with those adjustments but rather get it to a wheel allignment specialist.

Easy fix would be to roll the inner lip.

[xscape237]

I personal gripe of mine is when people post incorrect info on public forums.

Camber IS adjustable on the rears from factory (via the eccentric bolt on the camber arms). The scope of adjustment is minimal but it is there. Toe can also be adjusted via the toe arm.

The fronts are another story.

Thread can be closed, my problem is solved. Thanks for listening.

[n15m0]

I personal gripe of mine is when people post incorrect info on public forums.

Camber IS adjustable on the rears from factory (via the eccentric bolt on the camber arms). The scope of adjustment is minimal but it is there. Toe can also be adjusted via the toe arm.

The fronts are another story.

Thread can be closed, my problem is solved. Thanks for listening.

How did you solve your problem?

[mosoto]

I personal gripe of mine is when people post incorrect info on public forums.

Camber IS adjustable on the rears from factory (via the eccentric bolt on the camber arms). The scope of adjustment is minimal but it is there. Toe can also be adjusted via the toe arm.

The fronts are another story.

Thread can be closed, my problem is solved. Thanks for listening.

The info was correct sir. The camber bolt is a very marginal adjustment and has no effect on any suspension arm angle other than stock. There certainly would not be enough adjustment on a lowered vehicle.

[fcruz3r]

when you say "not enough adjustment" for a lowered vehicle, how many degrees / minutes can the stock camber bolt change camber?? +/-

Most cars I know of dont really have excessive camber changes even when slammed...usually aftermarket options are a last resort to actually dial more negative camber than what the factory bolt will allow.

[mosoto]

http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brakes-sus...nment-data.html

[mosoto]

The info was correct sir. The eccentric camber bolt has a very marginal adjustment and does not have enough "range" in order to return camber to stock with a lowered suspension.

edited to be more specific.

[xscape237]

How did you solve your problem?

I was able to get the morning off work.

Stopped by the tyre factory. Surprise surprise, camber on the LHS was -0.5 something, RHS was -1.4 something.

A quick adjustment and the problem was FIXED. -1.5 or there abouts on both sides now and no scrubbing.

[fcruz3r]

so basically +/- 1 degree on the stock camber bolt is possible. That's what I thought. Shouldnt need more adjustment even on a really low car.

[n15m0]

I was able to get the morning off work.

Stopped by the tyre factory. Surprise surprise, camber on the LHS was -0.5 something, RHS was -1.4 something.

A quick adjustment and the problem was FIXED. -1.5 or there abouts on both sides now and no scrubbing.

Cool, that was exactly what mine was corrected to -1.5 after I lowered it on 350z suspension.

The lower you go the more natural camber you will have.