Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well ive foud some 240k's

they need a full resto which is what im up for

but what im not sure is what price to pay as i was told 'make an offer'

what approximate amount would this be worth in your opinions?

A couple of hundred at the most, even though prices have been on the rise you have to take into consideration that its in badish shape and needs alot of work. Make sure you check the floor out aswell because its been sitting on grass for so long the moisture could have rooted the floor. Once rust starts with these things it can turn ugly....

definitely not a budget rebuild lol. if you put enough time and money into any car you can get it good again imo.

tell him you'll tow it off his property and it's yours. i remember i got a car that way once lol.

I've been stuffing about with 240k's for the last few years, and have a pretty good idea of values.

The things worth a bit of money on a 240k are straight, rust-free panels (especially a bonnet without rust or holes drilled in it) and bumpers (fantasy land), a complete, mint-condition original interior (unlikely) and undamaged eyebrow trim around the head/tail-lights (also unlikely), and of course any JDM extras like chrome fender mirrors or the big-small taillights and garnish (not visable in any of the pics).

On the other hand, L24 and L26 engines go for pocket change, and you might get $250 for the 5-speed, struts and diff combined. Auto gearboxes are worth next to nothing.

In short, if the body and interior are stuffed the car is worth sweet F.A. The mechanical bits are of no real value - and can be sourced from plenty of other generic and later model Nissans. So, look closely at car number 2. Ignoring the paint, if the body is redeemable then make an offer of a few hundred dollars - as it is a rare car these days. If the body is rusted out and dented to hell then it's worth scrap metal prices only - or certainly no more than the value of a smashed up Nissan MR30 sedan (ie, scrap metal prices!) The labor costs of restoring a rusted-out, smashed-up, cracked interior 240K will surely far exceed the cost of a halfway decent example.

Let us know what you decide to do.

well fingers crossed i have found the right one..

its in QLD but apparently its not rusted out etc...

it was for sale but no one bought it and now he may be giving it to a mate, but if not it will be back up for sale..

SOO hopefully i can grab that one! paint is faded but thats about the worst i hear.. its auto, but thats no problems with a manual conversion.

all in all, i dont think these 2 are going anywhere fast, so will wait to check this QLD one out and then if not check these 2 out.

there is a 4 door in tassie for sale atm, $4000, havent seen it but from the add it sounds pretty neat!

but it will most like sell very quick, as THAT guy is advertising down here for them again..

Wheres the Add ?, paper or on the web ?

Nigel

You'll find it on tradingpost.com.au. He's an older guy who has yet to master the art of digital photography. Going to Tassie to check out a car you've never even seen a pic of is a bit of a mission.

  • 2 weeks later...

Don't want to offend any 240K lovers...

But I'd say it'd be way too much work for not really anything special at the end. Better to simply just buy a better kind of car. If you're gonna do it yourself, buy a 1935-1940 Ford and make a hotrod. Then you can sell it for however much work you put into it and buy just about whatever you like!

If you're gonna pay someone to restore it for you (like say the Z or Healey Factory) I'd say you could get a decent C110 out of Japan or 240Z here for what it'll cost you.

BTW, there's one of these in similar condition around the corner from me in Melbourne in what looks to be some elderly lady's driveway. Can't see the front but I'd say it still has the engine in it and all. Was thinking of doing the same thing but then the above logic crept into my head...

Don't want to offend any 240K lovers...

But I'd say it'd be way too much work for not really anything special at the end. Better to simply just buy a better kind of car. If you're gonna do it yourself, buy a 1935-1940 Ford and make a hotrod. Then you can sell it for however much work you put into it and buy just about whatever you like!

If you're gonna pay someone to restore it for you (like say the Z or Healey Factory) I'd say you could get a decent C110 out of Japan or 240Z here for what it'll cost you.

BTW, there's one of these in similar condition around the corner from me in Melbourne in what looks to be some elderly lady's driveway. Can't see the front but I'd say it still has the engine in it and all. Was thinking of doing the same thing but then the above logic crept into my head...

Your driving a Corvette and want to chip into a Japanese car forum ????????????????????????????????????????????????????

You may be interested to know that a 240K/GTR look a like sold to Dubai connections for $14500.00 a little over a year ago and they paid all the onforwarding costs on top.

How does that compare with your Hotrod theory?????????????????????????????????????????????????

Cars are worth what somebody is prepared to pay for it and that goes for hotrod's as well and in particular hotrods are aimed at a very restricted niche market.

Just maybe you should go and have your say on a forum you know a little about.

D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
    • Got my 34 gtt tuned last week. Car made 362 wheel horsepower at 19 psi. Turbo was the ATR43SS. Only other upgrades were haltech 2000 series. 650cc injectors, walbro 250, fmic. Pro hub dyno reads 6% lower than actual figure according to my tuner. Car is a real ripper now.  IMG_7261.mov
    • Hi everyone, I'm wondering if anyone in Melbourne (preferably West) has a non-S2 R34 front bar. If it's already off the car, even better!  Nothing too weird, I just need to get a cut-out of the hole that the front indicators clip into 🤣 (image attached for reference)   I've got a front bar from JSAI Aero, but those holes need to be cut myself, and I want to get it right so the indicators will clip securely. And my OEM bumper is a S2, so I have no reference. So looking for a member who might be able to spare me a few minutes to make a cardboard cut-out using your front bar.
×
×
  • Create New...