Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, not sure where to put this as I'm not selling anything personally but just seeing who might be interested in an aftermarket airbox/heatshield.

I'm getting one made up for myself locally out of stainless steel but thought some of you might be interested in this too so ill give you a run down of what I'm getting and if anyone is interested I can pass the details on to you...

Basically its laser cut and made to sit in the passenger side corner behind the headlight, its got an opening through the side for the afm to attach to and have a pod on the inside as well as a cut out to clear the hot pipe for the inter cooler.

I haven't got pics of it installed but I do have some 3d renderings which ill photoshop inside the engine bay later to give you a better idea.

th_ss1.jpg th_ss2.jpg th_ss4.jpg

Price is around $130 for basic stainless steel airbox in either polished finish or powdercoated in a basic colour (black,white,red,blue etc)

However, for a bit extra you can have custom metal finish (zinc, blue gold, chrome etc) or custom powdercoated colour as well as custom engraving or cut outs on the lid. pretty much anything can be done such as a forum user name, number plate, jap brand name etc... (all laser cut)

I havent got exact pricing for all the extras but I can inquire about it if anyone wants it.

If enough people are interested ill set up a group buy.

Thanks :D

- Marko

Edited by SkyHi_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286501-interest-for-aftermarket-airboxes/
Share on other sites

f**k man, thats damn cheap. if its available for the s14 id be keen.

I'll ask, they will need a base car to take measurements etc for tho but if there's enough interest i don't see why not.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that the airbox is all press bent so its basically a perfect finish and should bolt up to stock mounting points around that area.

hell, they can use my car as the test run...

... if i can lowball myself a discount. :D

(actually, with the s14 one, could probably start marketing it on ns, s14 and s15 = same)

Edited by scandyflick

I'm making some out of Carbon fiber for RB25DET R34 . If you make them out SS will absorb heat too much !!! actually bet the temps will be higher then the lack of airbox ? unless its aluminum ???

My designs have a top that can be removed for the defect police and the second generation will be two carbon fiber snorkles into a KN style filter a hi volume factory box completely sealed off from below as well and include heat shield option on the back side.

should have mine done for the car show in loxton, dual snorkles

This carbon one sounds even more advertising... How muchies approx?

Im not selling them yet..lol but If I did around 300 for option 1, option 2 400ish

can make some for other models with a donor car for exact molds to AFM, connection points

will be using aircraft type fasteners , half turn to remove , quick release similar to below

26s51.JPG

Im sure that the Clark rubber heat resistant adhesive foam would counteract the head absorption by not letting the heat affect the air going into the pod. I dont think it is that expensive either, need to get some for my airbox.

Definantely like the look of this set up, but I agree the material is probably wrong.

Im not selling them yet..lol but If I did around 300 for option 1, option 2 400ish

can make some for other models with a donor car for exact molds to AFM, connection points

will be using aircraft type fasteners , half turn to remove , quick release similar to below

26s51.JPG

They look like a pretty smart setup, would like to use them on a whole heap of spots that the crappy plastic ones are. Do they make a version of these for thin panels? It looks like those need something fairly thick to lock into.

I got mine from just jap, had to make a few mods for my pod setup but it does the job.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

The also make them in carbon.

enginepic.jpg

Definantely like the look of this set up, but I agree the material is probably wrong.

They look like a pretty smart setup, would like to use them on a whole heap of spots that the crappy plastic ones are. Do they make a version of these for thin panels? It looks like those need something fairly thick to lock into.

these are made for aircraft aluminum skins , so they come in all sorts of sizes, I just grabbed the first example for photo purposes

they only take a half turn to remove them, also come in straight slot screws for use with 5 cent coins , roadside removal ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...