Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Tuning in Australia  

56 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

There has been a little discussion over on 350Z-Tech about ECU Reflash/Tuning of our cars. As we share the same heart (engine) I thought I’d extend the little fact finding exercise I started over at Tech here to better gain an understanding of what VQ owners would want from a tune if it was available. This will assist in determining if there is a business case to develop and take to a tuner (ie UpRev with Osiris). This should only take 2 minutes and I would appreciate your input.

Parameters that the tune will include at minimum:

- Up to 5 Maps on cruise control equipped vehicles

- Idle RPM

- Speed Limiter

- Electronic Throttle Control to achieve Wide Open Throttle at all speeds.

- Rev Limiter

- DTC disable

- AFR Targets

- Fuel Compensation

- Ignition Timing Advance

- Cam Phasing for equipped vehicles.

Additional questions (optional):

4. What features in would you like to see in addition to those listed above?

5. What on-going support would you like to receive from the tuner?

6. Any other comments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286582-survey-ecu-reflashtune-in-australia/
Share on other sites

Thanks to those for their replies to date. It is very beneficial knowing what the community is looking for before approaching the tuner.

If you haven't replied and are interested I encourage you to do so.

Thanks,

one thing that i'm really interested on ECU tuning features is the raising Rev Limit and Speed Limit removal as well. the rest is just the same thing A/F ratio, ignition timing, etc, which unichip can do.

one thing that i'm really interested on ECU tuning features is the raising Rev Limit and Speed Limit removal as well. the rest is just the same thing A/F ratio, ignition timing, etc, which unichip can do.

I've looked at a couple of reflashes in detail and narrowed the list two products that would be best for the Aussie market. Both offer these features.

How much HP/KW gain could be had from a ECU tune? Say with a plenum, intake and exhaust?

+1 to pw350gt.

It all depends on your car. Tuning doesn't create power, it unleashes it. Tuning is efficiency and a by-product of that will be more power. So if your car is in good shape, and there are gains to be made, there will be gains made. Add more parts that add a mechanical advantage, and the tuning will net you even more gain.

Edited by Aust350z
if i got an extra 10rwkw for $750 i would pretty happy :(

I'm pretty sure my dyno runs (with a cat-back and Popcharger) pre-ECU and post-ECU netted me around 10rwkW on the Z33. Note that was with the stock 6600RPM cutout, since I use a Unichip and hadn't reflashed my ECU yet.

I might have found a bit more if I could have revved the engine up to 7000RPM back then since the power curve didn't really fall away that much at the end of the graph.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I'll be following up early in the new year. Tuner shop approached was interested but requires them to get more involved.

I'll also add that the chosen reflash is Orisis from Uprev. Comes in three options (a) flash; (b) standard; © tuner. More info for those interested can be found at www.uprev.com

Uprev is also very keen to establish a Pro Tuner(s) in Australia.

Edited by Aust350z
let me see what i can do i know someone who may be willing to become a pro tuner

I'm all for someone working on getting this to the Sydney market :geek:

My goal is to have a Pro Tuner in Melb by end of March 2010.

My goal is to have a Pro Tuner in Melb by end of March 2010.

Sounds excellent - I am most interested in a local tuner. Would it mean we still purchase Osiris directly from UpRev or from the local tuner (wary of the usual USD-AUD crazy markups, especially with the strong dollar at the moment)?

From your enquiries, is there any reason we couldn't buy the Tuner version of Osiris and use it on our cars already (not that I am saying I would be able to tune it). Is it currently compatible with JDM cars or will the software need modifications?

Would it mean we still purchase Osiris directly from UpRev or from the local tuner (wary of the usual USD-AUD crazy markups, especially with the strong dollar at the moment)?

Would purchase from the local tuner at an AUD price. I wouldn't worry about this just yet :blush:

From your enquiries, is there any reason we couldn't buy the Tuner version of Osiris and use it on our cars already (not that I am saying I would be able to tune it). Is it currently compatible with JDM cars or will the software need modifications?

I would need to check comparability with JDM cars now but it is one of stages to reverse engineer the ECU to local markets (ie: Australian Z33). If ECU already compatible then nothing stopping you buying now. If you get the Tuner though you forgo Uprev support.

Edited by Aust350z
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...