Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know I'd need to take out the radiator, fan clutch and the alternator belt etc and also the plastic timing belt cover .. but what else is involed in replacing the water pump on an RB25det NEO (R34 GTT) ??

Does the timing belt have to come off to replace the wp ? anything else ?

Mine's still working and all but I've recently replaced the rest of the cooling system and I dont think my wp was changed when the dealership where I got the car changed the timing belt.. PLUS, I've broken one of the 4 studs that hold the fan clutch attached to it when replacing the fan clutch. So I thought might as well change the wp as I dont think it has been changed..

But knowing most mechanics quote 4 hours to change wp I can only guess its connected to the timing belt in some way and I wouldnt feel comfortable with mucking around with the timing belt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286649-changing-r34-water-pump/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Yep you ned to remove the timing belt to get to it. I replaced my timing belt yesterday - its a fairly straightforward job, I would estimate about 4 hours to do it all.

I know I'd need to take out the radiator, fan clutch and the alternator belt etc and also the plastic timing belt cover .. but what else is involed in replacing the water pump on an RB25det NEO (R34 GTT) ??

Does the timing belt have to come off to replace the wp ? anything else ?

Mine's still working and all but I've recently replaced the rest of the cooling system and I dont think my wp was changed when the dealership where I got the car changed the timing belt.. PLUS, I've broken one of the 4 studs that hold the fan clutch attached to it when replacing the fan clutch. So I thought might as well change the wp as I dont think it has been changed..

But knowing most mechanics quote 4 hours to change wp I can only guess its connected to the timing belt in some way and I wouldnt feel comfortable with mucking around with the timing belt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...