Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Body resto and what ever needs done to be done then will see if i build another motor but add a few goodies in side

and bolt on s will see what turns up no rush as i think it's a good buy doesn't owe me a fortune so spending some on

it no an issue.Finding the parts will be.

congratulations mate hope you're happy with the purchase and if you need anything just give us a ring...

looking forward to some updates trickling through soon :blink:

Hey Mate

Yeah real happy really nice car will be going in the shed and spend a few bob on the body as we spoke about

then see what i can do to screw some more Hp out of it but keeping it as it looks ie: cam rods head turbo ecu

etc etc, all in good time though.

get in contact with 'stagefumer' who is one of the users on here

He wringed 130kW out of his L20et, he used VG30et injectors and turbo, exhaust and a few other bits from memory.

Seeing as you are in melbourne, I suggest getting in contact with Status Tuning in Dandynong or some other NISTUNE professional tuner, they will highly likely be able to rig up a RB30e ECU to replace the L20et one.

The RB ecu can be re-tuned on the dyno/laptop/ air fuel guage combo,

the flap style AFM can be replaced with the RB30e unit too.

the L20et cant be re-tuned itself as no-one really has hacked it, as its too many hours needed and just easier to get a later model ECCS unit.

the 300zxt (Z32) ECU is also a good one, has better resolution,

A mate had his RB30e turboed with just ebay bolt ons, and had his ECU chipped from a fella in Adelaide, 'darkhalf'... anyway his dyno run as stockish RB30e netted 102kW at the rears, then with turbo gear, and the chipped ecu... 210kW at the wheels. that was an 8 hour install. Was a ripper of a day, drove in at 6am, drove out sideways thet evening

Thanks for the info will file it away for future reference i need to get some front panels first though do the body so any help on panels for one of these would

be appreciated.

Hi,

Post up a list of what you're looking for. There are some R30's at a local pick-a-part. (Best one disappeared recently - hate to think what happened to it). I can do some scouting (with camera) if you like.

JH

I am wrecking a 4 door hatchback currently. Shipping will be a killer though.

front panels are spoken for, basically all that is of use to you is the front stone tray and the doors?

So how are the 'bit' for me coming along, or have you forgotten ?

Nigel

see what i can do to screw some more Hp out of it but keeping it as it looks ie: cam rods head turbo ecu

etc etc, all in good time though.

Why would you bother with an L20ET?

Just bung in an L28E and associated turbo gear (yank ebay would be your friend for stuff like L28ET manifold and injectors, afm, ecu etc). Will end up about 1,000,000,000,000x better off than modding the L20. Simple maths, 40% more capacity is going to make a massive difference.

get in contact with 'stagefumer' who is one of the users on here

He wringed 130kW out of his L20et, he used VG30et injectors and turbo, exhaust and a few other bits from memory.

Seeing as you are in melbourne, I suggest getting in contact with Status Tuning in Dandynong or some other NISTUNE professional tuner, they will highly likely be able to rig up a RB30e ECU to replace the L20et one.

The RB ecu can be re-tuned on the dyno/laptop/ air fuel guage combo,

the flap style AFM can be replaced with the RB30e unit too.

the L20et cant be re-tuned itself as no-one really has hacked it, as its too many hours needed and just easier to get a later model ECCS unit.

the 300zxt (Z32) ECU is also a good one, has better resolution,

A mate had his RB30e turboed with just ebay bolt ons, and had his ECU chipped from a fella in Adelaide, 'darkhalf'... anyway his dyno run as stockish RB30e netted 102kW at the rears, then with turbo gear, and the chipped ecu... 210kW at the wheels. that was an 8 hour install. Was a ripper of a day, drove in at 6am, drove out sideways thet evening

paint and panel would be foremost but a simple turbo upgrade to a VG30 and a decent intercooler would see a 30kw gain or 130kw easily. And cheap too

i would have bought it just for that rear garnish for the boot lid!

yeah you don't find them anymore and the aussie delivered one ain't the same... i did see a wrecked one in QLD years back that had the same boot trim and it was still good but yeah, years ago

paint and panel would be foremost but a simple turbo upgrade to a VG30 and a decent intercooler would see a 30kw gain or 130kw easily. And cheap too

And LAG out your ass on an L20A engine.

Me for one, likes response from the loud pedal and therefore bigger turbo's on a little and very badly designed motor is not a plus in my opinion.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...