Jump to content
SAU Community

Time For A Rear End Upgrade, What's The Diff?

darrinspencer

By darrinspencer,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hopefully tomorrow I will have secured a complete series 2 Stagea manual cradle.

Should solve my problem.

Just need to buy new rear forked shocks. It is a shame I just put in a set of new bilsteins in 200k's old. I am sure someone will want them

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
seems pointless to me? you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?

I loose $100 on a pair of struts, but gain bigger drive shafts and mechancial lsd

Not too sure if I will break 5 bolt R33 gtst shafts, but not too keen to find out and have to spend more later buying the right gear

darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if ur interested i got a pair of stock rs4s rear shocks and springs layin around. u can have cheap if u want em. PM me

Thanks, but I have new bilsteins up front as well, plus need to be height adjustable.

Might sell the complete f & r bilsteins, I find them too stiff. Preferred the Teins I had before

  • 5 months later...
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought I would post an update.

I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version

1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered

2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear

3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.

So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.

When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.

Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.

It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.

I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version

Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?

So I assume this rear end was a factory option?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Have you run your vin through fast before, and checked the options? I know a LSD rear end was an option for the S2 auto's, perhaps this also meant the stronger tail & drive shafts were used to go with it. You may have the LSD option.

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 5 weeks later...
fmlycar Proficient

fmlycar

Posted
Posted

R34 non hicas craddle and half shafts bolted straight in and wheel alignment without any issues. S1 c34 converted to manual. Wheels that went in were 18x9.5 +12 with a 235/40/18 tyres. Has the slightest amount of poke on the front and rears and near on flush

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
GroceryZilla Apprentice

GroceryZilla

Posted
Posted
I thought I would post an update.
I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version
1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered
2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear
3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.
So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.
When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.
Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.
It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.
I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version
Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?
So I assume this rear end was a factory option?




So I'm looking to change over to a complete 33gtr rear end. Will there be any issues I run into at all?
Getting a new set of coilovers also so I'll be able to just get rears suit 33gtr.

I'm thinking entire rear so I can fit my wheels without doing flares and while only running -2° camber, changes shafts and diff which was my initial plan anyway.
Car is s1, wheels are 19x10.5+18 SSRs

d4f0a4538a15f3f898ca2f148971a28b.jpg
Excuse my primed bonnet [emoji23]
GroceryZilla Apprentice

GroceryZilla

Posted
Posted
I got an R32GTR rear - I think you may need to remount the Attessa unit.
2014-02-02181000_zpsf6f87731.jpg


The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, GroceryZilla said:

 


The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?

 

Sorry can't help you with the nitty gritty because I got my local RB guru to do it on a hoist in his workshop. All I know is that the attessa pump etc had to be relocated and I had to chase round for 6 x 1 axles of various lengths (different left and right).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...