Quick Sub Guide Dvc Vs Svc

[GHO5T_R3AP3R]

Quick sub Guide

In my opinion

Dance/Club/HipHop = 2 x 12" Subs

Jazz/Blues/Trance/Hrdcore Music = 12" Sub

Alternative/Rock/Pop/Classic = 10" Sub(s)

15" is just too big for sound quality, it drowns out the treble from the speakers

id recommend all to be DVC (Dual Voice Coil), they cost roughly 1.5x a SVC (Single Coil), it reproduces better bass and gives more kick

also it allows you to change the way your subs work.

If you need to know what the ohm value is

the ohm value is a resistance value, in the case of a speaker or sub, it determines how much vibration (the kick) vs how much bass (the clarity of the deep boom sound)

1 ohm setup would have max kick but least amount of boom

2 ohm setup would have a big kick but slightly more boom

4 ohm setup is the default which most SVC subs are made, this has the somewhat near perfect kick vs boom

8 ohm setup is the clearest out of all of them, this has the least amount of kick but very clear and defined bass

all these assumptions are made when the box is at the sub's recommended volume, by varying the volume of the box you can create tighter bass (more kick less boom) or deeper bass (more boom less kick)

SVC has single + and - input which only allows a single Ohm value, eg. a 4 ohm sub 1000W 500RMS would stay only at 500RMS and the level of bass stays the same

DVC lets you have more fun because it has 2 + and 2 - inputs which lets you decide on which ohm to use, on the box of DVC sub it would say 1ohm compatible or 2ohm compatible

that just means the minimum ohms. this is achieved by using a small cable to run it in parallel or series. DVC would always sound way better than SVC

visit here for the setup guide

http://www.kicker.com/dvc_wiring

Amps must also be for subs, do not use power amps for subs as they contain 2 or more mono blocks which shares power and when you plug it into one terminal, the sub quality becomes dependant on how much power the amp is willing to provide for each block. the other problems with is its frequency band, there will be a lot of distortions as they were made for applications for 100hz to 44000hz at 8 ohms* and the subs only run between 15 to 200hz*.

For subs always use a monoblock (amp class D) as they are more refined in quality contains only a single block, provides constant power supply and outputs between 10hz to 200hz*. These do cost slightly more but this was made specially for subs.

*Average Entry Level products

The headunit must also cutoff the low frequency from the speakers so if your mono amp is set at 80hz, you should set the speaker cutoff at 80hz as well.

Cables 4/8 gauge^ is good for 12v and ground. 8/10 gauge^ is recommended for sub cables and 10/12 gauge^ is for speakers

Cable quality does matter in some respects, the quality is in the mixture of the cable whether it is gold, copper or silver they provide near same level of quailty. the insulator though that come with this cable is very important. You can tell whether the insulation is good or not by how much they bend, usually a better one is harder to bend than the cheaper brands. i'd just go for stinger or a better brand.

^the smaller the gauge number the bigger the diameter of the cable

My setup 1800W Kenwood Mono Amp, 12" 1000W 500RMS DVC CompVr Kicker Sub at 4ohm, 12" 1500W 500RMS DVC Kenwood at 8ohm.

210W Alpine type S Splits, 250W Kicker Speakers. 1.5F Capacitor, 7" Pioneer AVH6850DVD in-dash 6 DVD stacker.

R33 GTST

anything that i need to add or change?

[Jack88]

after reading the first two paragraphs of your post i have come to the conclusion that you have about as much knowlage on this subject as a box of cheerios. For the love of god dont come on a fourm and start posting rubbish like that.

Theres being missinformed and then theres what you posted up there.

[Jack88]

My resonses are in Bold.

Quick sub Guide

In my opinion

Dance/Club/HipHop = 2 x 12" Subs Completly depends on model of sub. There is no "magic" number of subs.

Jazz/Blues/Trance/Hrdcore Music = 12" Sub As above

Alternative/Rock/Pop/Classic = 10" Sub(s) As above

15" is just too big for sound quality, it drowns out the treble from the speakers Rubbish,Completly depends on enclosure design. If a 15's sub is going to drown out your treble ANY sub will.

id recommend all to be DVC (Dual Voice Coil), they cost roughly 1.5x a SVC (Single Coil), it reproduces better bass and gives more kick being DVC has NO effect on sound quality. Its only used to give more wiring options for better use in multi sub systems or better wiring options with different amps.

also it allows you to change the way your subs work. How is it going to change the way they work? there going to be getting fed an AC signal no matter what you do.

If you need to know what the ohm value is

the ohm value is a resistance value, in the case of a speaker or sub, it determines how much vibration (the kick) vs how much bass (the clarity of the deep boom sound) Rubbish. It is however a measurment of resistance.

1 ohm setup would have max kick but least amount of boom wrong

2 ohm setup would have a big kick but slightly more boom wrong

4 ohm setup is the default which most SVC subs are made, this has the somewhat near perfect kick vs boom wrong

8 ohm setup is the clearest out of all of them, this has the least amount of kick but very clear and defined bass also wrong.

Using a low ohm wiring configuration will reduce the sound quality abit. How ever the difference is arguable at best, you would never be able to tell the difference in a back to back test,Using a lower ohm load on an amp will generally let the amp make abit more power though, within its limits of course.

all these assumptions are made when the box is at the sub's recommended volume, by varying the volume of the box you can create tighter bass (more kick less boom) or deeper bass (more boom less kick)

SVC has single + and - input which only allows a single Ohm value, eg. a 4 ohm sub 1000W 500RMS would stay only at 500RMS and the level of bass stays the same I dont know what your trying to get at here but an amplifier wont just supply 500wrms of power to a sub,there not like light switches. Any speaker/Sub power rating is a THERMAL RATING ONLY. Meaning its VC can take upto the listed amount before it burns. It is possible to exceed its thermal limits for short periods of time though. You will generally reach the subs mechanical limits long before you come close to its thermal rating under most circumstances.

DVC lets you have more fun because it has 2 + and 2 - inputs which lets you decide on which ohm to use, on the box of DVC sub it would say 1ohm compatible or 2ohm compatible

that just means the minimum ohms. this is achieved by using a small cable to run it in parallel or series. DVC would always sound way better than SVC Wrong, i have already explained why above.

visit here for the setup guide

http://www.kicker.com/dvc_wiring

Amps must also be for subs, do not use power amps for subs as they contain 2 or more mono blocks which shares power and when you plug it into one terminal, the sub quality becomes dependant on how much power the amp is willing to provide for each block. the other problems with is its frequency band, there will be a lot of distortions as they were made for applications for 100hz to 44000hz at 8 ohms* and the subs only run between 15 to 200hz*. Not always the case. For most people using a bridged multi channel amp is more then sufficiant for the average joe.Your argument about problems with the frequency brand is rubbish. What amp are you thinking of that will do upto 44 000hz? they will generally be rated to +/- 3db upto 20 000hz.

For subs always use a monoblock (amp class D) as they are more refined in quality contains only a single block, provides constant power supply and outputs between 10hz to 200hz*. These do cost slightly more but this was made specially for subs.

*Average Entry Level products

The headunit must also cutoff the low frequency from the speakers so if your mono amp is set at 80hz, you should set the speaker cutoff at 80hz as well.

Cables 4/8 gauge^ is good for 12v and ground. 8/10 gauge^ is recommended for sub cables and 10/12 gauge^ is for speakers The gauge of power cable to be used is dependant of the current draw of the amp(s) you are using.8 gauge is massive over kill for a sub system.Like wise with your recomendation for speakers. It wont hurt tho if you feel the need to use it its your money. Why do you keep putting ^ at the end of gauge? it has no relevance to it what so ever.

Cable quality does matter in some respects, the quality is in the mixture of the cable whether it is gold, copper or silver they provide near same level of quailty. the insulator though that come with this cable is very important. You can tell whether the insulation is good or not by how much they bend, usually a better one is harder to bend than the cheaper brands. i'd just go for stinger or a better brand. The better quality stuff is actually easier to bend which makes it easier to work with.

^the smaller the gauge number the bigger the diameter of the cable Correct.

My setup 1800W Kenwood Mono Amp, 12" 1000W 500RMS DVC CompVr Kicker Sub at 4ohm, 12" 1500W 500RMS DVC Kenwood at 8ohm.

210W Alpine type S Splits, 250W Kicker Speakers. 1.5F Capacitor, 7" Pioneer AVH6850DVD in-dash 6 DVD stacker.

R33 GTST

Why are you running two completly different model subs. Please tell me your not running them from the same amp.....

Id suggest you do alot of reading on this subject before you try to give advice to other people, For there own good.

anything that i need to add or change?

Edited September 12, 2009 by Jack88

[_Ryan_]

good quality 12 and good splits/2ways with punchy/clear mid bass!

[Carbon 34]

after reading the first two paragraphs of your post i have come to the conclusion that you have about as much knowlage on this subject as a box of cheerios. For the love of god dont come on a fourm and start posting rubbish like that.

Theres being missinformed and then theres what you posted up there.

Jack is very right

This guy has NO CLUE HOW SOUND WORKS , DO NOT LISTEN TO HIM

[GHO5T_R3AP3R]

thanks for that for clarifying, i probably should've worded the topic post properly. all the info at the top of this page is what i got told by various people and just wanted to know how much of it is correct. i did put "In My opinion" at the top and what i meant with "quick sub guide" was that I need help quickly to fix my system. its all in pieces atm

SORRY for the Confusion, bad english.

Edited September 14, 2009 by GHO5T_R3AP3R

[-Stokesy-]

Thanks Jack i was planning my responce then realised that you pointed out basically everything i wanted to say!!! I also couldn't be bothered reading the post

One more thing I wish to add is apart from aesthetics or SPL comps i can't think of any reason for having more then one sub. I have a single G5 and when it's turned up close to full i can only stand it for under a minute before it starts to actually hurt my ears. One good sub will out perform 2 cheaper subs any day.

[Carbon 34]

Thanks Jack i was planning my responce then realised that you pointed out basically everything i wanted to say!!! I also couldn't be bothered reading the post

One more thing I wish to add is apart from aesthetics or SPL comps i can't think of any reason for having more then one sub. I have a single G5 and when it's turned up close to full i can only stand it for under a minute before it starts to actually hurt my ears. One good sub will out perform 2 cheaper subs any day.

ok what every you say.. the enclosure can make or break you... I can put a 100.00 dollar sub in a perfectly spec'd and pro built enclosure and you would swear it was a 1500.00 one

or I can just dump a 1500 speaker in a 50 dollar generic box and it will produce generic sounds

I think most of the old master installers here would agree ?????

[Jack88]

ok what every you say.. the enclosure can make or break you... I can put a 100.00 dollar sub in a perfectly spec'd and pro built enclosure and you would swear it was a 1500.00 one

or I can just dump a 1500 speaker in a 50 dollar generic box and it will produce generic sounds

I think most of the old master installers here would agree ?????

you can have a +20 from me lol, knowlage like this is why they call us master installers.

[Shiraz200SX]

you're a douche. kill yourself.

[Jack88]

you're a douche. kill yourself.

You Better hope your not talking to me bud.

[Carbon 34]

You Better hope your not talking to me bud.

Or me...lol

[Shiraz200SX]

You Better hope your not talking to me bud.

what do you rekon? obviously not because you didnt make a comment to induce that sort of response from me.

Or me...lol

see above.