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sorry if this has been discussed before but i wanna up the boost in my car without spending big bucks cause as u all know i'm a tightass ... what i want to know is if there are any differences in performance of different brand bleed valves eg gfb or turbosmart or greddy etc .... why overshoot occurs?? how bad this problem really is?? and also if anyone here has stuffed up a good engine by using a bleed vavle ??

thanks

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There's nothing too special about the name brand bleed valves, Theres a shit load of guys out there who run homemade bleeds and if they are made and setup correctly you wouldn't have a problem with them.

The problem with bleed valves is they cant maintain the higher boost all the way to redline unless you set them up with a lot of piping and if you do then you will get a lot of spiking. Thats the trade off.

The greddy on the otherhand is a regulator type controller rather than a bleed and are a shitload better at maintaining higher boost to redline and have minimal spiking.

I'm in the process of building a home made regulator type controller and turfing my bleed valve.

Heres a link if you're interested

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Have fun

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i wanna up the boost in my car without spending big bucks cause as u all know i'm a tightass

good to know theres still honest men around! haha icon14.gif

I had a simple $100 turbosmart i think? bleed valve on my previous car and it did the job, I think i was one of the lucky ones though as mine used to hit about 14psi and bleed back a little bit rather then spike.

I think if your planning on running more boost in the future (turbo upgrade) etc you may as well outlay some more pennies and get a electronic one

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yeah .. i'm not going to plan to put on a bigger turbo or anything like that ... i just want that little bit of extra power ... got a full exhaust and pod ... but my boost is still very stock ... it only just passes 350mmhg in second (auto) ... but in first its just under 350mmhg ... and before i had those mods it was never ever passed that half way mark ... so yeah i just wanna put it up just that little bit :cheers: ... i wouldn't mind having a dyno but i doubt it'd be worth it ... i've got a proper boost gauge which i will put in soon just to see how accurate the stock one really is ... cause i thought those mods would of upped the boost more than it did ... but we'll see ... :D

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I don't entirely agree with what BHDave said about bleed valves. The ones that most guys make are generally pretty shoddy. they don't hold boost (bleeds back by like 5psi) and they spike something chronic or from what I have personally seen which is 7 examples if I remember correctly. Another reason to buy A brand name one is becasue some of these have a brass restrictor in the valve itself. This is designed to try and stop (read curb) wastegate creep. Turbosmart calls it something like GBC gated boost controller or something like that.

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I'm in the process of building a home made regulator type controller and turfing my bleed valve.

Heres a link if you're interested

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Have fun

I was in the process of building the same thing but then I got the PowerFC + Apexi boost controller.

So anyway I have the parts required to make this device if anyone is interested in buying them.

That is:

1 x R07-200-RNKG Inline 07 ¼ Regulator Relieving 7Bar;

1 x V07-200-NNKG Inline 07 ¼ Relief Valve 7 Bar;

2 x 2069-02 07 Spring 0.7 Bar (brown);

I have already installed the 0.7 bar springs.

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i am running a gfb bleed valve with my auto r32gtst and it works a treat! doesn't spike (although the hoses are very short) which many people claimed thaty would happen.

from what ive read the turbosmart ones are the most unreliable, while turboXS makes a very good one. GFB also no problems from first hand experience.

it actually loses about 1-2psi above 5000rpm but that i would expect from the stock turbo at 11psi and i don't think this is a bleed valve issue so much.

good luck and happy buying!

Waz.

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As a side note (as people normally do this when they fit a bleed valve) is it safe to disconnect the boost solenoid (without fitting a bleed valve) ie just to get rid of the two stage boost?

Is it as simple as disconnecting it? Or do you have to feed it 12V? Does it cause any harm just disconnecting it without feeding it 12V?

Sorry for all the questions, im a newbie :D

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As a side note (as people normally do this when they fit a bleed valve) is it safe to disconnect the boost solenoid (without fitting a bleed valve) ie just to get rid of the two stage boost?

Is it as simple as disconnecting it? Or do you have to feed it 12V? Does it cause any harm just disconnecting it without feeding it 12V?

Sorry for all the questions, im a newbie :rofl:

i'm not sure how to install it either .. clint .. dean .. i may need ur help :)

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Disconnecting the solenoid is not a problem. The ecu does not know the difference. I ran my solenoid disconnected for a very long time.

Did you just purely disconnect it? or did you feed it 12V (I read another post about someone feeding it 12V supposedly to keep it happy).

Is there a way to know whether its working or not? I guess the easiest way would be to keep an eye on the boost gauge and see if boost comes on in two stages...

You'd think that the eCU would know if the solenoid wasn't connected and report some error.

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i'm not sure how to install it either .. clint .. dean .. i may need ur help  :P

Hippy, dont be scared:) its easy. Just cut the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator, and put the valve in line with the solenoid. Then unplug the factory solenoid.

The factory solenoid is a type of bleed valve, when the revs hit 5000, it bleeds off enough air for 2psi extra boost.

The valve you are fitting, just allows a small amount of air (boost pressure) to escape to atmosphere, and therefore not being used to actuate the wastegate.

simple.

To adjust, wind the bleed vavle all the way SHUT, so all boost pressure is going to the wastegate, then back off 1/2 turn. Take for a spin, then repeat until you have the desired boost pressure, recommend not going over 10-11 psi with stock cooler.

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Guest MFX_R33

I have a homemade bleed valve, set up as a 2 stage. It cost me $70 buying the parts from Peps, and it does the same thing (I would say better than) the Turbosmart equivalent. The difference with mine is that don't have a fixed restrictor, which plays the biggest part in controlling the boost. I use and adjustable ball valve, to set the restriction. I have then used a fuel lock solonoid with an in cabin switch for the 2 settings. It is cheap simple and it works well. I have used it to the tune of 205 kw @ rears with 18psi and a small drop off towards the 7500 redline to 16 psi.

Jeff.

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I might hijack this thread temporarily so i can diagnose my problem. My bleed valve is currently not really workin rite.

I have a hose comin from my intercooler piping into the bleed valve, and then this into the wasgate actuator. Is this correct. At full antilock on the bv, i get stock boost, and at full clockwise, i basically get either uncontrollable boost or exactly the same as stock.

I dont know wats goin on. It must not be correctly installed?? I just recently installed a FMIC, would this change anythin?

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