Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey mate hows the sale going

was wondering if you got your radiator still im in syd and in desperate need. contact me on [email protected] or 0411840634

thanks

hey this site wont let me even reply to messages im after the clutch pedal braket to mount it to the firewall. its compleatly snapped on one side i have been driving it for a month like that now its great noone else can get my car to move.lol i know im a bad man hurting a skyline but what can you do. also i need a radiator anyone with a radiator in sydney contact me on 0411 840 634

steven

do u have the rear left passenage seat belt unit?

if so, how much with postage to brisbane?

can it fit into a r33 s2?

hey mate, i cannot pm u..please text me about the payment details...I need it urgently..

this is my number 0422850370

Hello, how are you?

Interested in front bar if still avail. side skirts. front and rear lights. boot. bonnet. and a few more things. please let me know what area your in.

Thanks, Dannie

Hi SAU

Decided to wreck my R33 s2 and not repair after a side on.

This car was in mint condition with 93,000klms.

So here is the list: By all means PM me if anthing your after is not listed.

R33 gtst s2 Complete 93,000 klms engine $2000

R33 gtst s2 gearbox $1600

ECU to engine Harness $220

ECU $150

Radiator $150

K SPORT height and Damper adjustable suspension $1000 (less than 5klms near new)

Air filter with adapter $80

cat back exhaust $350

front bar complete with foggies $450

front guard lhs or rhs $100

bonet r33 s1 in black $250

RHS R33 s2 headlight $280

front grill $150

front reo bar $220

rear bar $120

m spec side skirts $150 pair

m spec rear pods $120 pair

Door $150 each

Mirrors $80 each

taillights $90 each

Skyline rear garnish $60

boot lid $100

s2 rear spoiler $100

brake light $60

GT badges $55 delivered pair

Front m spec lower lip $150 couple cracks in plastic

Power window motor with regulator $150

Power window Drivers switch $95

front seats $300 pair complete with rails

rear seat $150

Door trims $90

s2 Steering wheel with airbag $270

rear parcel shelf $90

r33 s2 gear surround $90 very good nic

Drivers PW surround $90

climate control unit $90

Complete 5 stud setup $1000 (Will separate bits; PM me).

Lower control arms $100 each

Front hubs $120 each

Hand brake cables $150 pair

Front rotors $100 (near new)

Rear rotors $90

Front Calipers $350 pair

Rear Calipers $250 pair

LOCATED SYDNEY: HAPPY WITH PICK UP OR DELIVERY AT BUYERS EXPENSE.

ANY BITS NOT LISTED PLEASE PM ME. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...