Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Driver Dynamics i think still has some spots for their January Sandown trackday. 10% discount for SAU Vic members and a very well run day. Perfect day to find your feet with the car as there are a bunch of great instructors on hand who can jump in with you whenever you want. Not a TIMED day, so you just get a bunch of laps, every hour (a lot of track time in the end) and just gradually get to figure the car out at speed, etc. Heaps, heaps of time to get comfortable

Who's doing the suspension work? I take it RacePace are more than sorted for that or are you going to Traction Tyres, etc?

What I find curious is the HKS advertising for their v-cam.

This PDF:

http://hkseurope.com/engine/vcam.pdf

take a look at the claimed dyno graph.

I'm converting tangomatts graph from KPH to RPM for this comparison and converting

japanese PS to KW.

for the HKS car (which is 2.6, not 2.8), and running just 1bar of boost, and 2530s

at 3000 rpm .. (hks claim 110kw) (this 2.8 100kw)

at 4000 rpm .. (hks claim 202kw) (this 2.8 150kw)

at 5000 rpm .. (hks claim 272kw) (this 2.8 275kw)

So even with 2.8 and 23psi of boost, the 2.6 hks demo with 14psi spools

faster and generates more mid range power only losing at the top due to 14psi vs 23psi.

HKS list the specs for their car... 264 degree exhaust cam on 2530s and vcam step 1

improved intake, hks cat and muffler, bigger intercooler fuel pump and injector

and f-con vpro ... No super special fat exhaust, no engine work.

Can anyone speculate as to the reason?

Edited by moneypit
SS8_Gohan Posted Today, 02:42 PM

Driver Dynamics i think still has some spots for their January Sandown trackday. 10% discount for SAU Vic members and a very well run day. Perfect day to find your feet with the car as there are a bunch of great instructors on hand who can jump in with you whenever you want. Not a TIMED day, so you just get a bunch of laps, every hour (a lot of track time in the end) and just gradually get to figure the car out at speed, etc. Heaps, heaps of time to get comfortable

Who's doing the suspension work? I take it RacePace are more than sorted for that or are you going to Traction Tyres, etc?

I am going to book Driver dynamic as soon as I know what my work schedule will be in 2010 January. Thanks for advice.

As for the suspension, they will be revalved and resprung to Racepace track specs by Fulcrum in QLD, who is the authorised TEIN distributor.

moneypit Posted Today, 03:13 PM

What I find curious is the HKS advertising for their v-cam.

HKS list the specs for their car... 264 degree exhaust cam on 2530s and vcam step 1

improved intake, hks cat and muffler, bigger intercooler fuel pump and injector

and f-con vpro ... No super special fat exhaust, no engine work.

Can anyone speculate as to the reason?

I will ask Beno and he will enlighten us on the difference between the two dyno graphs. I know he often says that comparing raw power readings between dyno charts are frivolous as there are too many different variables that cannot be taken into account. The truth is in how the car actually drives on the road, and I can assure you that the RB28, V Cam and Garrett- 5s combo drives smooth and strong and delivers the power like a NA car. By 'smooth' I mean there is virtually no turbo lag and no sudden spike in power that can throw the car off balance mid to late corner acceleration.

But if it is true that the HKS demo car can generate 35% MORE power at 4000 rpms with 40% LESS boost than I am running, then I and certainly Beno ought to be IMPRESSED and ASHAMED at the same time!!!!!

A few questions that I have in my mind and you guys in the know can answer for me:

Aren't HKS 2530s essentially the same specs as the Garrett -5s?

Can 202 rwkw be really achievable on a RB26 or RB28 for that matter with only 14.5psi of boost?

Would a higher lift cam profile, say comparing 248 vs 264 on the inlet side, give better high end power and sacrifice low end power? If the 264 gives better high end power and sacrifice no low end power, then how would 272 compare??

This is getting interesting!

Cheers

Matt

Hey mate once again an awsome result that you and Racepace have achieved. Just to answer you question the garret -5's are simular but they are definatly not the same as the HKS 2530. The HKS turbos have different housings a larger inducer and the wheel trim is slightly different as well. A lot of people refer to the Garrets and claim they are the same turbos but from my experiance and that of a few other people that have used both Garret and HKS the HKS turbos always seem to make a bit more power than the Garrets. I am sure Dirt Garage and Beer Barron will back up my comments on this.

I really think that 202 RWKW would be achieved reasonably easily with 14.5psi of boost on a RB28 as my R33GTR RB28-HKS2530 is making 450 AWKW on 21psi without the obvious advantage that the v cam system would give you.

The HKS Vcam system comes in step 1, step2 and Step3(PRO). Step 1 I believe is 248-264 step 2 is 248-272 and step3 is 248-280 The whole concept behind the Vcam is to give the advantage and extra top end of the larger cams without sacrificing bottom end power.

Lets not all forget that the power that your car currently makes is not on the final tune and there will definatly be more in your set up with the final tune optimised. The figures quoted by HKS will definatly be with the tune and every other aspect of the car optimised to be running to its maximum potential.

As you also stated and Ben has said to compare cars on 2 different dynos in different conditions if fairly pointless exersize. I can also say with confidence that nearly all japanese dynos are on the happy side and over inflate power levels. I was in japan with Mark Berry and the Hi Octane boys when they took their R32GTR to japan for the rev speed super battle at tsukuba and their car was putting out 700ps on a japanese dyno wich is between 10-20% more than what the car was actually making on a aussie dyno.

Dont get caught up in dyno figures mate as they tell only a fraction of the story the most powerfull car is not always the quickest car the seat of the pants is the best way to judge how good a particular set up is all i can say mate is just enjoy the awsome set up that you have built and dont worry about the figures on a sheet of paper.

By the way the quickest time attack GTR's in japan are nearly all running an RB28 with Vcam.

Edited by dazmo

What rpm would the engine be running say in 4th gear at:

104 kph

121kph

138 kph

155 kph

172 kph ?

And what if its in 5th gear at the same speed increments?

I think my dyno was recorded in 4th gear.

Dazmo:

You wouldn't happen to have a dyno graph of your RB28 HKS 2530s beast? Would you care to post it up for comparison? It would be interesting to see how the VCam affect the shape of the power curve.

Cheers

Matt

I'm not trying to compare my poor little 32 with yours Matt but here is my dyno sheet. HKS RB28, 2530's, 272 cams. Still a bit more tuning in it though.

Also attached Gav's dyno for comparison. I believe it's a little out of date now and they have done more tuning with peak hp back up around the 570-ish but you get the idea.

post-8807-1257572685_thumb.jpg

post-8807-1257573318_thumb.jpg

Edited by jonn
Not really a tough choice, r35 or an r34 of this calibre.

R34 wins, hands down.

Matt you should be very proud of what you've built

Well I've just lost an evening of my life going thru this entire thread but must say it was well worth the read. :rofl:

I have just recently sold my 34 V-Spec and would have to agree with N1GTR whole heartedly.

I think we're all still in awe of the R35 at the moment Matt, but give it another year or two when we get used to seeing them on the road a bit more and I'm sure your finished work of art will turn heads more than it's newer cousin......at least you can say you've got the last Skyline ever made :)

Congrats on the build.

Hey Matt there is a dyno sheet in my build thread from the initial tune with the RPM limited to 7200rpm. I dont have a print out from the the current tune finalized mate. Next time the car is on the dyno i will get a current dyno sheet. V cam would definatley be a welcome addition to my car though and something I would love to run but to be honest due to the expense there are better ways for me to spend my cash as my car has been built with a more track orientated focus suspension and brakes would be a far better investment and would net better gains per dollar spent as far as achieving a better lap time.

Dazmo:

You wouldn't happen to have a dyno graph of your RB28 HKS 2530s beast? Would you care to post it up for comparison? It would be interesting to see how the VCam affect the shape of the power curve.

Cheers

Matt

THANKS GUYS (Sled, Talbo, astrotristan2) for kind words!

Hi Dazmo,

I feel a bit inadequate now since checking out the power otuput of your RB28 and HKS 2530s. Hmmm... Maybe another upgrade o 2530s. I hope another tune after running in 1000kms would yield more mid range response, maybe wick up the boost to 25psi?

Cheers

Matt

Pro Photos have been processed. However, due to 'copyright' agreement, I cannot post any large format photos. All pictures are watermarked with 'Joel Strickland'. I apologise, but you all know about copyright laws blah, blah, blah....

Here's a sample for my favourites:

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

s.jpg

Just expressing my courtesy and respect for Joel, here's the link to Joel's website: (Note I have no financial interest in his work)

Joel Strickland Photographics Website

  • Like 1

WWHHHAAAATTTTT!!!! LOL

I'M SPEECHLESS........

WELL DONE MATT AND GOOD LUCK TO YA! :thumbsup:

WHAT A QUALITY WORKSHOP HUH!(FLOORS CLEAN ENOUGH TO EAT OFF) LOL.

MATT PLEASE COME TO THE SHOW N SHINE.

....... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...