Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm wanting to rebuild my RB25DET, but seeing as how a) it'll take some time and b) it's a daily driver.

What needs to be changed over in a conversion like that? I've got a standard computer and loom, RB20 gearbox, and a 3" exhaust *gulp* and am wanting to go a bog-stock RB30. I've had a soft-spot for NA for a while.. so yeah.

Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287736-rb25det-to-rb-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

You're rebuilding your current engine as in strapping on a RB30 block? Or you want to go either RB25DE or RB30DE? There was/still are a few listings on ebay for a RB25DE reconditioned block, RB25DE 10:1 CR Pistons, the crank and I think a few other bits.

No no. I'm not doing anything flash, just wanting to bust in an engine I can destroy and do it fairly simply, while building my RB25DET to factory standards (yes, that's right. no forged internals)

The idea is to drop in an RB30E or RB25DE while retaining the RB25 loom and all that, so it's a simple conversion back to the 25. but in the mean time, i'm wondering exactly what needs to be changed to run the RB30E.

I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

elsewise, it shall be a bigger job than anticipated.

i would be checking on the legal side of things of just putting in a stock rb30e. i don't know if you will be able to do it because you are fitting an older motor to a newer car.

it may be easier to just buy a second hand turbo motor and dropping that in while you do the rebuild. should be able to pick one up reasonably cheaply since you don't need to buy the gearbox, loom (if you get the same series as your current motor), etc. or if your current engine is still going but you just wanted to rebuild it, leave it in there and rebuild the motor you buy. saves the hassle of changing motors twice

I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

nup, completely different.

You best bet is RB25DE, which as its only temporary, will run fine even n/a with turbo gear (ecu/loom/sensors/injectors etc) or if you get one with injectors etc, using the N/A ecu on the det loom will be fine, the car will drive perfectly.

pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

you dont have a location set mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...