Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Overheating - Help Please

nuffsaid

By nuffsaid,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

You did mention the dash water gauge started moving above middle and that only happens around 110-115C or so.. When mine was 100C it was still UNDER the midway mark. And yes water and oil temps are closely related. Water/coolant cools the engine .. if it can't cool it properly your oil temps go up as well.

Just get a Consult cable and download some free software ..plug it in to your laptop and go for a drive and you'll know the water temps. You can get a consult cable for $75 from http://ecutalk.com/interface.aspx or if you're in Sydney, you can borrow mine.

STAGE1 Collaborator

STAGE1

Posted
Posted

Hi

I will reply to your pm here

I go to Toowoomba quite a lot and in the early stages there was a little hike in temps but last Xmas I had oil and water temps off the wall ( oil 120 and water almost boiling).

I had the cooling system flushed at a cost of 410.oo with little change when going up the range.(overheating) :happy:

I then had the radiator professionally cleaned (top tank off and the core cleaned) now all the temps are where they should be. $120.oo from memory. :)

You should note that the oil temp takes longer to drop back

The radiator repair man seed that because the radiator has only one row it can get blocked over time.

Even though cleaning the radiator has fixed the problem I will be getting a bigger one sometime in the future.

Cheers

Phil

Sheriff Wan Proficient

Sheriff Wan

Posted
Posted

Did you bleed the system after the flush etc?

Sounds like there is just air in there. If it didnt do it before it shouldnt start now

Skylines have very efficient cooling systems, i wouldnt be changing the factory set up unless your 100% sure...

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

its f**king crazy just HOW MUCH air is stuck in the cooling system ... I just had to drain my coolant (was fixing an issue with a radiator bracket that was preventing it from seating correctly) today and decided to try something I read the other day. Namely, took a 2l Coke bottle, cut the bottom off and then filled up the radiator through it with coolant but it was still half full. Left the car running and held the bottle like that with all that coolant sitting there and radiator cap obviously open ...

The amount of bigass air bubbles that came out in the following 20 mins as the coolant circulated is un-fricking-believably .. not tiny bubbles, BIG ASS MOFO BUBBLES ..atleast a 100 of them. I highly recommend this air bleed technique now ... using bleed screws is stupid and messy and doesn't get out one tenth of the air that this method did..

The car doesnt run any cooler than it did before ..still 86C driving, but atleast I know there arent massive air bubbles in my block anymore that could create hotspots and we all know where that leads...

STAGE1 Collaborator

STAGE1

Posted
Posted
Thanks mate

And when you say all temps are normal now, what is that for oil and water?

Oil temp sits around 70deg for normal driving and rises to about 80-85 when pushed e.g. up the range.

The water temp stays on half all the time now but have yet to push it hard in really hot conditions which is why I am planning to go with a bigger radiator just for added piece of mind. I do tow a trailer at times and this adds to the problem.

Cheers

Phil

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its f**king crazy just HOW MUCH air is stuck in the cooling system ... I just had to drain my coolant (was fixing an issue with a radiator bracket that was preventing it from seating correctly) today and decided to try something I read the other day. Namely, took a 2l Coke bottle, cut the bottom off and then filled up the radiator through it with coolant but it was still half full. Left the car running and held the bottle like that with all that coolant sitting there and radiator cap obviously open ...

The amount of bigass air bubbles that came out in the following 20 mins as the coolant circulated is un-fricking-believably .. not tiny bubbles, BIG ASS MOFO BUBBLES ..atleast a 100 of them. I highly recommend this air bleed technique now ... using bleed screws is stupid and messy and doesn't get out one tenth of the air that this method did..

The car doesnt run any cooler than it did before ..still 86C driving, but atleast I know there arent massive air bubbles in my block anymore that could create hotspots and we all know where that leads...

Can you post a link to this method? or do you have more detail about what you need to do?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

it is pretty simple.

take 1 empty coke bottle (cleaned first)

cut the base off

remove radiator cap

sit coke bottle upside down in radiator cap hole

fill coke bottle about half way up with water or coolant or a mixture of both

run engine for a while with the bottle sitting there

opening the bleed screw while doing this would also get a lot more air out than just opening it normally.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

the only problem is its a bit messy too ..you have to hold the bottle down hard so coolant doesnt escape around the area where bottle meets radiator cap opening...Best to use some sort of plumbers tape and seal it all up properly I reckon

The problem with the bleed screws is as soon as the coolant starts flowing ..it will start pouring out through the bleed screws and creates a mess in the engine bay.

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
it is pretty simple.

take 1 empty coke bottle (cleaned first)

cut the base off

remove radiator cap

sit coke bottle upside down in radiator cap hole

fill coke bottle about half way up with water or coolant or a mixture of both

run engine for a while with the bottle sitting there

opening the bleed screw while doing this would also get a lot more air out than just opening it normally.

So let me get this right, once the radiator has been cleaned properly, put it back in.

- top up the radiator as much as you can, also top up the overflow bottle up to the relevant marking

- remove radiator cap

- put the head of the bottle into the radiator and fill up to about half way

- open bleed screw (there is only one right? near the top of the engine bay)

- run engine for XX minutes

- keep running until no more bubbles come out of the bleed screw

- top up bottle if required

- close up bleed valve

- turn off engine

- put radiator cap back in

Assuming the engine is cold, how long approximately should I be running the car for? until only coolant comes out of the bleed screw?

And I assume that you keep topping up the coolant as you go to about the halfway mark on the bottle in case the systems takes in more coolant

And is there only one bleed screw?

Edited by nuffsaid
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

there are 2 on R34s ..1 on R33s

I wouldn't waste time with the bleed screws ..its messy. In order for air to come out the coolant has to flow through the engine, once it starts flowing it will be hot and it WILL be pouring out of the bleed screws. Just bleed from the bleed screws for a few minutes before coolant starts flowing .. then switch to bottle. Most of the air will come out of the radiator through the bottle once the coolant becomes hot and starts flowing through the engine.

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
there are 2 on R34s ..1 on R33s

I wouldn't waste time with the bleed screws ..its messy. In order for air to come out the coolant has to flow through the engine, once it starts flowing it will be hot and it WILL be pouring out of the bleed screws. Just bleed from the bleed screws for a few minutes before coolant starts flowing .. then switch to bottle. Most of the air will come out of the radiator through the bottle once the coolant becomes hot and starts flowing through the engine.

Thanks Denis, so if one is at the top close to the strut bar on the manifold, where is the other one?

So bleed initially from the screws, then remove the radiator cap and jam the head of the bottle in.

This bottle will start bubbling and letting air out through the top of the radiator, keep it there until the bubbling stops?

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

one bleed screw is near the firewall / AAC valve and the other at the opposite end..you need to take the engine cover off. There's a small warning do not open when hot type of label near both.

As for the rest yeah pretty much like that ..just make sure the bottle is lodged in firmly. I'd highly recommend taking a few minutes and taping it all up nicely and make it leak proof otherwise coolant will escape and make a mess OR try to modify the bottle opening so that you can actually jam it into the radiator opening firmly

I let it run for about 20 mins and bigass bubbles were still coming out every few second..I gave up from tiredness as I was holding the bottle down myself and hot coolant was leaking because I couldnt hold it steadily any longer. I'd say 30 mins or so and they should all come out.

  • 2 weeks later...
nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE!!

I removed the radiator and got it professionally cleaned locally for $60. They said the whole middle of the core was blocked as if I had poured in some anti-leak substance. Anyways all cleaned so I put the radiator back in.

Drove to city (about 50 minute drive) in and out of traffic and oil temps did not go higher than 90-95 degrees. Water temp - no idea, just sat on halfway.

What is a normal oil temp to be running?

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 months later...
R1maniac Collaborator

R1maniac

Posted
Posted

Im going through the same issue now.

For memebers who havent read the previous posts, il explain it breifly here.

-I try to install boost gauge and in this process i snapped the vacuum line to the boost sensor.

-so i drive the car without the sensor and everything seems fine. No more popping sounds from the exhaust. so i beleive the car is not running rich anymore.

-next day i noticed that the oil temperature is going above 110. Theres steam coming from the radiator. Even with normal driving (barely any boost). Water temperature shows normal though.

-i glued the vacuum line and installed the sensor. But the problem still persists. Very high oil temp, normal water temp. I flusehd and changed the coolant, but no change.

Please help :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...