Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jim at Croydon's has done it again!!!

Ive been watching everyone tune their cars locally and in the USA for about 6 mths now. I didnt rush these mods and originally I was going with a base Cobb map 1 tune to match my midpipe etc but after watching 09GTR work with Croydons the custom tune is the only way to go.

Aside from the car obviously being more powerful its the perfect torque curve that makes the car more exciting to drive. VDC must be to R mode under full power otherwise TC cuts the throttle.

So the mods are:

CBRD Midpipe (the best midpipe ive ever heard - zero drone and under throttle sounds unreal)

Mines filters and

Custom Cobb tune from Jim

Standard the car put out 295kw. But now the car is putting out an easy 340kw (i think 15 pound boost) at the wheels, there is more power to come from these mods above but we backed it off until we can get some better HKS plugs.

Tonight the car ran 3.3 sec to 100kmph with over half tank of fuel. Didnt get it off the line perfectly but 3.3 is good enough for now and this should translate into low 11's. And the car has only 1600kms on the clock.

Next up - Actuators, HKS Boost controller, high flowed catted turbo pipes, GFB Blow off valves and Endless MX72 Pads all from Croydon's.

Highly recommend you speak to Jim at Croydon's if your thinking about some simple mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287983-croydons-do-it-again/
Share on other sites

Jim at Croydon's has done it again!!!

Ive been watching everyone tune their cars locally and in the USA for about 6 mths now. I didnt rush these mods and originally I was going with a base Cobb map 1 tune to match my midpipe etc but after watching 09GTR work with Croydons the custom tune is the only way to go.

Aside from the car obviously being more powerful its the perfect torque curve that makes the car more exciting to drive. VDC must be to R mode under full power otherwise TC cuts the throttle.

So the mods are:

CBRD Midpipe (the best midpipe ive ever heard - zero drone and under throttle sounds unreal)

Mines filters and

Custom Cobb tune from Jim

Standard the car put out 295kw. But now the car is putting out an easy 340kw (i think 15 pound boost) at the wheels, there is more power to come from these mods above but we backed it off until we can get some better HKS plugs.

Tonight the car ran 3.3 sec to 100kmph with over half tank of fuel. Didnt get it off the line perfectly but 3.3 is good enough for now and this should translate into low 11's. And the car has only 1600kms on the clock.

Next up - Actuators, HKS Boost controller, high flowed catted turbo pipes, GFB Blow off valves and Endless MX72 Pads all from Croydon's.

Highly recommend you speak to Jim at Croydon's if your thinking about some simple mods.

Geez, CRD must be good to make you go fast White 35!

  • 3 weeks later...
Thats awesome for such a few simple mods, must be very happy man.

yeah its certainly a lot more exciting to drive. the car only has 2600kmson it and as the kms go up i think its getting faster. only negative is that it comes on boost so hard at 3-5500rpms and then boost falls away slightly. im going to work with Croydons trying some new Cobb tuning to see if we cant get more consistent boost to the redline. The car is a complete handful in damp conditions and just spins the wheels in 1st & 2nd gear.

Maybe have to do Boost Controller and Actuators etc.

Just ordered Stillen Sway bars from Forged Performance in the US and H&R Wheel Spacer kit from Perrin Performance in the US.

I'll have them installed in a few weeks and report back the handling changes.

Plus i want a set of these rims!!

Volk Racing Hi metal bronze RE30 19X10 +30 and 19X11 +20 or +25

Hoosiers 295/30/19 front and 315/30/19 rear.

$4190 shipped to Australia, maybe better if group buy

Sharif at forged performance, about to get some for myself, aussie dollar now better than when I was first considering this.

Volk Racing Hi metal bronze RE30 19X10 +30 and 19X11 +20 or +25

Hoosiers 295/30/19 front and 315/30/19 rear.

$4190 shipped to Australia, maybe better if group buy

Sharif at forged performance, about to get some for myself, aussie dollar now better than when I was first considering this.

yeah im still giving thses rims some serious thought - although the Zele rims are sick as well... i recon the $$ will get a bit stronger as well - before it comes crashing down again! great time to be ordering from the US.

Jim at Croydon's has done it again!!!

Highly recommend you speak to Jim at Croydon's if your thinking about some simple mods.

i dont drive a 35 but plan to buy one in the future - as for jim @ crd...u got that right :(

ive taken both my gtr's to jim & nobody comes close (ive been around to 'other' tuners & it has always been chalk & cheese)

i dont drive a 35 but plan to buy one in the future - as for jim @ crd...u got that right :blink:

ive taken both my gtr's to jim & nobody comes close (ive been around to 'other' tuners & it has always been chalk & cheese)

:happy: Spot on Marko R1 - Jim know's his Nissan's Our R33 - 2 records - OP South - 46.81 and EC - 1.44.19 still on 20psi, can't wait till finished set-up!!

:) Spot on Marko R1 - Jim know's his Nissan's Our R33 - 2 records - OP South - 46.81 and EC - 1.44.19 still on 20psi, can't wait till finished set-up!!

i remember the last time we discussed your lap times, low 40s at EC is a fantastic time :happy:, u were running 300awkw if my memory serves me right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...