Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i've tried everything. Radiator professionally flushed and cleaned, new thermostat, water pump impellor perfect, changed fan over. And still the engine is overheating. The strange thing is that the fluid in the radiator is cool. Could there be a blockage somewhere in the water jacket?

Regards, Rob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288793-cooling-issues/
Share on other sites

once the car warms up .. is the top radiator hose hot ? It should be .. Is the bottom radiator hose only warm (not hot like the top one) ?? The bottom hose should only be warm if it's hot then your radiator is not doing its job

The factory water temperature sensor is at the top radiator hose (water exiting the engine) so if it's reporting the engine is overheating the top hose should be HOT which is normal ..

You could also have air stuck in the cooling system so bleed it ... best way to do it, 2l coke bottle shove it into the radiator cap seal the joint so coolant doesnt leak and then poor coolant into bottle (obviously cut the bottom of the bottle off) let it run for about 30 mins ..all the air will come out the radiator cap and you will see big ass bubbles in the bottle with the coolant

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288793-cooling-issues/#findComment-4837355
Share on other sites

you have said that the water pump impellor is perfect, but how is the housing? if the housing is a bit worn and the impellor isn't making a tight seal then it won't pump any (or enough) to cool the system properly (had this problem with my outboard. the impellor was new but it wasn't pumping water at idle and only a little bit at full speed because of the housing being worn). if you don't know how old the water pump is then i would replace it to be safe.

also, when the radiator was professionally fluched/cleaned, did they actually open it up and clean it, or just flush it?

for the fluid in the radiator to be cool while the car overheats means that there is a flow issue, whether it be the thermostat not opening properly (you didn't install it the wrong way did you?), the water pump or a blockage or air leak.

as wacky dee said, the top hose should be hot. if it isn't and you are still getting overheating issues then there are a few things to do. first (this only applies if you have a stock ecu and are going off the temp gauge in the dash saying the car is overheating) is to get a hold of a consult cable so you can see what the ecu is reading the temp as. it reads from a different temp sender to the dash, so if it is reading ok then you just have a faulty temp sender. however if it is reading hot as well as the dash but the coolant/hose is still cool, then i'd say the thermostat is a probable suspect as it will be letting out a very small amount of coolant (enough to alter the temp sensor reading) but not enough to actually heat up the radiator

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288793-cooling-issues/#findComment-4837918
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...