Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys unfortunately I'm finding out more and more wrong with this R32 that i bought last week lol i was really stupid to not try and find someone that knows what there looking for (bad things)

in a car before i bought it. but yeah im curious weather i should stick the the RB20 (146.000K) and fix the leak the turbo has. or totally convert it to the Rb25 because i only want to make the power that the 25 has out of my 20. so.. i dont know?? could any one help ? :( is is worth the money fixing the 20 rather than replacing it? i dont really even know if the turbo is leaking all im getting that from is from when my foot is flat from 2000rpm to 4000 boost hits what its suposed to wich is 12 or 13 on the guage but after 4000 it drops down slowly to 10 and then 8. ?? is that a leak?

payed 3 for my motor, 1.5 for the gearbox and ~1k labour, i could have gotten it cheaper but i bought the motor/gearbox seperately. If you are going to do the conversion make sure you do it all together, i did the motor first then the gearbox abit down the track because i didnt have the patience to save and do it all at once. payed the price and got stung 1k labour each time

what is this leak ? It isnt leaking oil by what I gather rather your boost is dropping off. what boost controller are you running ? What turbo is on it ?

what is this leak ? It isnt leaking oil by what I gather rather your boost is dropping off. what boost controller are you running ? What turbo is on it ?

im really new to the turbo import scene sorry... im not exactly sure what it is but when i accelerate foot flat from 1800rpm to 4500rpm boost hits and stays at 13 but then after 4500 it creeps down to about 8. my boost controller is a manual twist top type. should i maybe adjust it down ? its only a stock turbo with stock cooler.

Just because there is a bit of leaky oil you wanna change out the motor?

no not because of the leak but just what iv herd about the 25's all people ever tell me is that there bullet proof. are they kidding me?

id rather pump a 20 all day long than a 25

After reading what people on here say about the 20 yeah i'm starting to agree. has anyone ever had a 20 rebuilt ? if so what did it cost and how long did it take ?

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D.

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D .

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

Oh OK thanks man. yeah im really really new to everything about these kind of things... i guess i jumped to conclusions too fast :) thanks dude i can sleep now lol

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D .

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

So are you saying you got an electronic boost controlller to fix a boost leak?

course not. but in my circumstance we eliminated the possibility of a boost leark (checked all hoses, intercooler piping etc),then changed the intake pipe to a steel item to illiminate it as being the culprit (by sucking shut),then even changed the turbo actuator. when all those failed, we installed a ebc (was running a turbosmart dual stage boost tap prior) and now she hold boost at 1.3 bar :(

course not. but in my circumstance we eliminated the possibility of a boost leark (checked all hoses, intercooler piping etc),then changed the intake pipe to a steel item to illiminate it as being the culprit (by sucking shut),then even changed the turbo actuator. when all those failed, we installed a ebc (was running a turbosmart dual stage boost tap prior) and now she hold boost at 1.3 bar :)

Can i buy a steel intake pipe? or do you have to get them custom made? also will a steel pipe with a pod on the end make a flutter/dose sound??

yeh u can buy them, apexi make a intake kit, but bit pricey. otherwise u can get one off ebay or ask any exhaust shop to make one up for u ;).

and yeh it flutters when u have a pod at the end of it

fk me, If you wanna swap the motor because of what sounds to be a small boost leak of some kind, then your best to take it to a mechanic who knows what he/she is doing to find the problem. Just so you dont wind up paying $5000 for something that might only cost 50 cents.

Good Luck

mate instead of sitting on the computer typing on a forum, why not book the car into a performance workshop (surprise, there are plenty of them) and get them to give the car a once over. then u have peace of mind knowing that the problems have been fixed, and u didnt have to fork out 7K for a new engine. 14 pound with a stock 32 cooler isnt the smartest idea either..

Thanks everyone :D i really appreciate everyone's opinion alot :cool: i needed it. Im going to go see a mechanic tomorrow in yatala. thanks heaps sorry if i wasted anyone's time on this stupid problem :)

OH one more stupid question... How does a manual boost controller work? iv twisted the top the way it says to twist to turn it down but when i tested it its still hitting 13. i think i may have to turn the nut that's under the top too?? sorry... i work in a computer store and get these kind of stupid questions from customers all the time and i know how annoying simple stuff like this is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm makes things tricky then.  I can't in good faith say, go forth my child and weld in whatever metal you remove in your quest for rust. I very strongly expect that adventure will end in sadness.  But you can't leave the car as it is, you literally have a hole in the roof. Also, I know you think the rust doesn't go much further, but the more I look at those photos, I really think the rust does in fact go much much further.  If you are 100% committed to being the only person working on the car.... stop where you are, hit it with rust converter, fiberglass, body filler, paint work, pretend you never discovered the rust in the first place?  Even if the body was repaired, painting the roof is a pain. Were you planning to use rattle cans to paint the roof?
    • Ok so I will not defend my naivety. I regularly feel like things look easier than they are.  As much as I'd love to, buying another vehicle is out of the question. It was hard to get this car through the family process and we just don't have the room.
    • If your current chain of thought is, I'll go somewhere like pick and payless (or equivalent) and causally remove the bit of roof with your BYO grinder then casually weld that into your car... oof. It might sound easy but you will 100% end up with a warped roof. You say you'd prefer some ugly fab work, but I don't know if your prepared for how ugly this will be lol.  I've seen professional welders do similar but easier repairs and still end up with warped panels.  It is reasonable to assume that from your current skill level, you won't be able to do this cut and paste job while keeping flat panels.  Ok, but we are here to learn. This might be the go... jump on car sales, sort by price, buy the cheapest thing with rego and drive it home. This is your new practice vehicle. If you're thinking of doing the cut and paste job, try it on this car. Cut out the panel (hey it's a perfect fit) weld in the panel. See what you think of the results.  Next thing you could try, practice removing the entire roof in one piece by drilling out all the spot welds etc. Have a crack and welding the roof back on.   
    • I've never welded but I own a welder and I've always wanted to learn. In fact I had already looked at a 1 day welding course in Sydney.  I'd prefer some ugly metal fab than anything weak.  I'm challenging myself a lot with this car. For so many years I've just paid other people to do things and I've always been keen to learn and get better.
    • Ok, thats a good starting point.  So before we start.... do you mind if the car say isn't a strong as it was before? My first thought is go excavating for rust. You'll be left with a gaping hole, that will be filled with fiberglass. You could make it look factory pretty easily but yeah, if you never crash it will never be an issue right? Before we look at other options, how confident are you welding? 
×
×
  • Create New...