Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for big power the RB26 head is better. but you also need a new wiring loom and possibly ecu depending on what you go with.

i hope you have set aside 20k+ for the build.

yeah i was thinking the same but then i seen them built for $6000NZ here http://www.dodsonmotorsport.com/index.php?...l-products.html or i could get one for $6000aus from an unfinished project sale atleast i would have most of the work done i will most likey change a few things to make it stronger what do you think deal or rubbish?

Edited by R33Gtst Driver

call and ask them the price for that engine. there is no way you are going to get a forged bottom end, full turbo setup and dry sump for $6k NZ the parts alone are worth double that and then some.

for that kind of money expect a bare stock internal RB30DET long engine.

call and ask them the price for that engine. there is no way you are going to get a forged bottom end, full turbo setup and dry sump for $6k NZ the parts alone are worth double that and then some.

for that kind of money expect a bare stock internal RB30DET long engine.

all the info i foun on prices for parts on that engine build were all atleast a few years old i figured the price might have dropped or they just didnt use the best parts but your probly right which sucks

Edited by R33Gtst Driver

IMHO -

- Read the SAU forums re the build.

- Speak to a mechanic who's built more than one, preferably many. Get a written/detailed quote.

- Chat at length with someone who is driving one and go for a ride.

- ask the owner the FULL cost. This will vary from the quote you get.

dollar for dollar, I reckon a street car is better off with the 25 head with VCT. You get the benefit of all that extra torque coming on progressively and earlier. And for a road registered street car you couldn't want for a better package. It's the way I was/will be going. with WMI and a forged unit and the right turbo you've got to be good for 350-450rwkw and thats healthy for a rwd.

while he already has a 25 head for 600+hp (which is what he seems to want) a 26 head is a far better starting point than a 25 head as you can fit much higher lift cams due to the solid lifters as opposed to spending lots of money to convert the 25 head to solid lifters.

by your sig you appear to have an RB25 head already. check out the RB30 sticky and see what power people are getting. a 25/30 will provide way more power than a rwd can handle so the extra cost of an RB26 head is not bang for $.

thanks ill take a look and i dont know how good my current motor is internally it has already been cooked badly once which is why im shopping for new engine rather then taking a chance on it and i thought it was better off starting with rb30det because either way i was gonna spend a lot forging it

while he already has a 25 head for 600+hp (which is what he seems to want) a 26 head is a far better starting point than a 25 head as you can fit much higher lift cams due to the solid lifters as opposed to spending lots of money to convert the 25 head to solid lifters.

i was thinking along similar line based on the info i have found on the net

Edited by R33Gtst Driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...