Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an R33 GTS25t coupe, have 17x9 rims on the rear with 255/40 rubber. Suspension is tein height + damper adj coilovers, at the moment the gap between the top of the tyre and the guard lip is ~25mm, i hope to lower it about a further 20 - 25mm if possible so the guard sits just above the tyre or almost level. I have 235's on the front.

Does anyone have a 33 with 255s on the back that is pretty low? Did you have to pull out the inner plastic guard on the front so it doesn't rub when you turn? Also im guessing the rear guards will have to be rolled, anyone got their rear guards rolled successfully on a 33?

:P

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28975-slamming-r33-gts-with-255s-on-rear/
Share on other sites

Mines a bit lower and is running IMPUL 3 piece on extended width hubs. Take a look at the red 33 on the www.rwdturbo.com sandown track day pics. It's not as low as you might want but I do drive on the street and need some range of motion for decent handling on the track (non adjustable tein coilovers). Then again the offset may be different. I didn't need rolling and the fronts (235) are also cool.

Ive got Volks 17*9 with 255/40/17 and running Tien suspension set on the lowest. It has never rubbed, not lips but was certainly close, but due to the rock hard suspension, there wasnt much travel. I have since raised to the highest setting, yes it looks ugly, but only as i got a canary.

ok thanks skylinegeoff, do you still have your plastic inner guard in? i guess ill just take mine out, my front 17x8 (235's) have spacers so they sit right out but just inside the front guards. my car looks about the same height as yours, maybe a few mm higher at the moment.

Robo's yeah my sus has hardly any travel either, are your guards rolled?

you able to post some pics or pm me, of your car when it was lowered? also how did u go passing EPA with your loud exhaust? :D

i had 265's on my old Gtst.. it had plenty of room.

You'll also inherit some nice neg camber when you drop it more, so the tops of the tyres will sit nicely inside the guards.

Christian

I've got exactly the same as you....Tein's...17's.....255/40.....235/35. I have all the guards rolled...about $65 each guard. Mine only rubs when turning/dipping, such as exiting my drive (but only at certain angles). Mine is pretty slammed, (see avatar) I can measure if you want.

cheers Ozzy

Boost

Ive only got the pic in my avatar on how low it was. At the moment there is a fair gap at the back, so no use sending those, soon i will drop it back down a little.

About the loud exhaust, its amazing who you know in the exhaust industry, so the letter has gone back to the EPA with below 90db.

TO all,

I run 18x9(fr) with 245/18, and 18x9.5(Rr) with 265/18/35 on simmonds le wheels.But be warned dont dump it any lower than 10 to 15 mm above tyre as the ride gets way too harsh,doesnt do the car much good either and you will need to fit a camber kit to get any mileage out of these,as the lower you go the more neg. camber you induce.

Regards,

SKYLINE...

skyline

are your front or rear guards rolled? im interested in knowing whether it's necessary, since this is the next step to consider if i am to lower it more. yeah got a fair amount of neg camber on the rear as it is.

Ozzy that would be cool if u could measure it :cheers: and u guys got any pics that show the height?

cheers

chris

Boost, offset is the most critical factor when lowering. A difference of 3mm offset may make the difference between rubbing and not. I am running 18x8 +35 with 235/40/18 and 18x9 + 35 with 265/35/18. The rears are very close to the outer guard (nothing rolling won't fix), but due to stock ride height, they don't rub. The fronts are absolutely fine, could be dropped a fair amount. Be aware though, that a 18x9 +35 might sit differently to a 17x9 +35. Not sure if that is really helping, but my guess would be if you are running 255s on a 17 with the correct offset it should be OK.

measured to bottom of guard lip mine is 645mm off ground all round and 345mm from centre of wheel to guard lip. probably as i said before drop it another 20mm, dont wanna get my guards rolled if i dont have to but this may be the only way. the guard lip on the fronts dont stick out as much as the rear, so they may not need to be rolled?

Boost, you really should roll the front, because the time you will rub (possibly catch and pop your guard out) is not when you are going straight, but when you are turning and the suspension compresses. The tyre may catch the metal guard and pull it out - happened on my old car. If you are going to get the back done, get the front done at the same time ;)

BOOST,

Sorry for delay in getting back to you, i ran out of internet hours on sunday nite.Yes my rear guards are rolled,nothing on the fronts.My ride heights are 350mm fr,and 335mm rr, with -1.5deg rr camber and -1.5degfr camber,caster set at 7.0deg and fr toe at 0 with rear at 1mm toe in.The total car weight is 1448kg with corner weights at lhf 394kg rhf 393.5kg lhr 335kg rhf 332kg .Getting these corner weights this even is one of the advantages of running coilovers because you can adjust the corner heights of the car to achieve different weights and even up any discrepensies you may have.The weighing of the car was done on race car scales and done here in adelaide by manta racing (steve cramp )

Regards,

SKYLINE....(kym)

  • 8 months later...

Yes we can do it a one stop shop for panel paint, Dent Removal, Buff mark Removal, Paint Glazing.

Please see www.clik.to/glassplexin or follow the link to DentCraft

Proudly Sponsered by DentCraft.

I can do mobile if needed but must have suitable area to work on.

Des Wong

Glassplexin WA

0412 034 861

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...